Jeet Kune Do Concepts

About JKD Concepts

World famous hand to hand combat instructor Paul Vunak who is our mentor has guided us through systems based on proven field tested principles rather than a collection of techniques which don’t work in a real life encounters. 

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PFS Programs

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What is Jeet Kune Do?

What is Jeet Kune Do?

About Jeet Kune Do Concepts

Organization

Eric Wnek is a member of Paul Vunak's PFS (Progressive Fighting Systems). World famous hand to hand combat instructor Paul Vunak who is our mentor has guided us through systems based on proven field tested principles rather than a collection of techniques which don’t work in a real life encounters. The following are concepts; systems and programs that we teach here at Elite Jeet Kune Do.   

Many people believe training in one area one range one art is enough. If your aim is to be an all round street orientated martial artist you got to do it all. There are so many arts that have so much to offer, let me ask you this: do you eat the same food everyday for the rest of your life? Certainly you don’t. The same concept applies to training; you must be capable of flowing through all ranges. Kicking, Punching, Trapping, Grappling (stand up or ground), Weapons and Multiple attackers. So the way you train is the way you will perform, if you sit in reference points and comfort zone training and engage in politics, belt systems, point fighting competitions, who is better than who, well you are wasting your time. If you never put on the headgear and tell your partner to feed real energy well you are just cheating yourself. Bruce Lee’s mentality is: you learn a technique, practice it, master it, before you maintain it you must be able to function it, by that I mean you must train that technique with an opponent really trying to take you out with protective gear in full contact sparring, if you prevail and the method, technique or concept works you can maintain it, if not flight time is needed until you do.So the only way that technique is going to work is through athletic attributes, if you don’t acquire any attributes technique alone is worthless. As Paul Vunak would say Bruce Lee’s Jeet Kune Do is like an iceberg. The tip is technique, while lurking below the surface is the greatest mass of the berg, which is composed of attributes. And as an experienced seaman well knows, it is the hidden mass of the iceberg that constitutes the greatest danger.  The two reasons why people loose an encounter in the streets are:  1. Stamina, 2. Unfamilarized range.  Example:  You might be a boxer and you get tackled to the ground and you have no clue what to do and you panic like a fish without water and you loose. Or you are a kicker and you end up in clinch range and get a myriad of head butts, knees elbows and eye gouges thrown at you and you are unfamiliar with that range and you loose. Or you end up in a bar and someone breaks a bottle and you panic and end up dead or hospitalized. I think we all get the idea.  So to be efficient in all ranges you must train it in a matrix accordion affect, where you might start out with empty hand, then it progresses and mutates as fights do in the street, to clinch range, all of a sudden it makes its way to the ground, then your suddenly on your feet again and you are dealing with mass attack two on one which then it might progress to weapons (knives, pool cues, bottles, chairs).  This was just one example out of the myriad combinations we deal with; you need to train this way if you want to survive in the streets.  Elite Jeet Kune Do addresses these scenarios with training methods, concepts and reality sparring to get you in that zone and feel how you should and can react in a life threatening situation to survive.  

PFS Programs

R.A.T. Rapid Assault Tactics

Rapid Assault Tactics: The RAT system is the heart of Progressive Fighting Systems and of Elite Jeet Kune Do. It was developed by Paul Vunak specifically for the US Navy Seals as a primary combative program taken from the JKD concepts. How it differs to any other art or system out there is the straight blast concept. This concept deletes base and balance to the assailant, its an equalizer, you become capable of taking out a larger person then yourself quick and efficient with the most barbaric tools, Head butts, Knee’s, Elbows and Kino Mutai (biting, eye gouging, finger breaking and pinching). Today the RAT system is taught to Special Forces, Military, Marines, Rangers, F.B.I, D.E.A, C.I.A, S.W.A.T. Teams, over 50 police Departments in the U.S and other countries.

Law Enforcement Control Tactics

Law Enforcement Control Tactics: This System is a unique empty hand concept designed specifically for Police. These Tactics are taught for escorting an aggressive hostile subject that is not cooperating getting in or out of a squad car, prison jail cell or resistance to hand cuffing. Its particulars are Locks, Restraints and Dumog, which is a Filipino wrestling, art dealing with natural choke points on the human body.

Law Enforcement Expandable Baton Tactics

Law Enforcement Expandable Baton Tactics: Again this new method of training towards defense tactics with a baton is improving officers all around the world. It will improve your timing, distance and footwork as well as other vital attributes. These tactics will enhance the way you use your baton, after understanding and applying these concepts your capability of holding back multiple opponents at bay until back up arrives becomes a reality, this training will give a tool to defend yourself through armed edged weapons that could inflict a lethal injury.

Elite Jeet Kune Do’s Personal Weapons Training

Elite Jeet Kune Do’s Personal Weapons Training: Our method deals with all weapons available in the street. With these concepts you are capable of dealing with any weapon, the training contains attribute development, attributes are qualities that fill and make technique work, without attributes technique cannot function.  Attributes cannot be honed in only with empty hand training. So training deals with full contact weapons sparring, mass attack (multiple opponents), knifes, sticks, staffs basically anything that can be swung around and inflict pain. Weapon training is essential in today’s world, one important reason is seven out of ten fights today involve some kind of weapon, so it would be ignorant as a martial artist not to dwell in this world.   

Escape to Gain Safety

Escape to Gain Safety: This program is taught to many people especially women.  This self-defense strategy is designed for people that care about personal safety but don’t have the time to train steadily in the Martial Arts. This steady progressive method will teach you how to inflict pain to buy time to run from an attacker safely. This is only achieved utilizing full contact padded up equipment for the student to hit with full force and escape a real dangerous environmental scenario.

Ground Fighting

Ground fighting training: Our training for the ground has three levels, level 1. Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, level 2. Vale Tudo, level 3. Kino Mutai (street). Level one is our base and foundation, it gives us the fundamentals of movement tools and attributes needed to have an awesome ground game. Level two is were we put on some head protection and gloves and we mix in the punching and kicking with chokes, leg locks and arm locks, with all this going on were still in the sport mind looking for a superior position to dominate and submit the opponent, and working on escapes while hitting is involved. Now we move into the street aspect of the ground, its no longer a sport and you don’t want to be on the ground too long especially in a mass attack, this is where the PFS blend with Kino Mutai helps us equalize (biting, eye gouging, finger breaking and pinching) So training the sport end and the street end makes a lethal cocktail.

What is Jeet Kune Do?

Jeet Kune Do is a direct intuition of unity, it is not a new style of Karate or Kung Fu.  Bruce Lee did not invent a new style, or composite, or modify any style to set apart from any existing method.  His main concept was to free his followers from clinging to style, pattern or mold.  Jeet Kune Do is merely a name - a mirror in which we see ourselves.  There should be some sort of progressive approach to its training but as Lee said "To create a method of fighting is pretty much like putting a pound of water into a wrapping paper and shaping it."  JKD allows oneself the ability to flow freely from style to style.  JKD is a constant unrhythmic movement, as well as a constant change.  

The Arts of Jeet Kune Do

Wing Chun – energy, trapping, wooden dummy training, kicks, principles, & concepts   Thaiboxing - mental attitude hard core condition, rear leg hook kick, smashing elbows, tie-up positions   Tai Chi - grounding pushes, sweeps, energy, feeling energy of opponent and redirecting it   Chin Na - locking, & Chinese grappling   Choy Li Fut - wide hits, trapping   Hung Gar - tiger claw cranes beak- comes from high line   Pa Qua - catch jab, sway & hit   Hsing – I - low Dumog, Tai Chi   Western Boxing – punches, rhythm, body mechanics, footwork, defensive maneuvers   Northern Shaolin – various kicks   Southern Shaolin – various kicks   Penjak Silat Sequence of moves – partner Teaches how to move Fluid drills · Cross > parry over and under > bridge > break shoulder · Step through arm bar > groin hit > foot sweep   Filipino Martial Arts Destructions from entries > foot sweeps > Penjak Silat   Wrestling - locks & ground fighting   Three combinations   Training Sticks - movement & body mechanics   Creating an illusion through the use of broken rhythm   Drunken Style – body mechanics Drunken Monkey Kali Looks like you’re going another direction For body mechanics   Arts Essence (What We Take Out of It) Boxing Hitting, parrying, and footwork Kali  Destructions Tai Chi  Grounding Wing Chun   Entering > trapping  

Footwork

26 different variables

We need transportation for our Martial Arts techniques - all the footwork is geared for the moves (punching, kicking, trapping, etc.)   1.) Step & Slide Shuffle Advance -  2.) Step & Slide Shuffle Retreat 3.) Push Shuffle Advance 4.) Push Shuffle Retreat 5.) Right Side Step 6.) Left Side Step 7.) Curving Right 8.) Curving Left 9.) Circling Right (CCW) 10.) Circling Left (CW) 11.) Slide & Step shuffle Advance 12.) Slide & Step shuffle Retreat 13.) Lead Step (Jag Step) (3 ways) 14.) Heel & Toe Sway 15.) Rocker Shuffle 16.) Triangle Step Right (Advance) 17.) Triangle Step Left (Advance) 18.) Triangle Step Right (Retreat) 19.) Triangle Step Left (retreat) 20.) Step Thru 21.) Step Back 22.) Pendulum Step (Forward-Backward) 23.) Pendulum Step (Backward-Forward) 24.) Step & Hop 25.) Hop 26.) Hopping   Lead Switch  
  Cross Step   Stance -Stand feet underneath you shoulder width apart - keep grounded - take a step forward with your right foot - turn it in a little bit - then take your left foot and turn it inward and raise your heel (like a spring coil) - left hand is like you are talking on the telephone and your front hand is a little bit lower (can be high depending) - can hit low quick -  It is important to keep your feet underneath you very important to be able to move in both leads with all footworks - This is what makes a Martial Artist alive and able to adapt When Bruce came to America he fought like a Wing Chun man (with his right foot forward and in their stance) - In the mid 60's he was moving around like a Boxer - In the early 70's he had no lead you never knew what he was going to do - Now there is no lead (In JKD first there is a lead then there is not) - Constantly evolve dissolve the lead - Start with the circle go to something else then come back to the circle Footwork puts you in position for the next technique Be light on your feet and always on your toes 1.) Step & Slide Shuffle advance - right foot steps and you drag/slide your rear leg forward - Quicker, it is used with a finger jab or fast hand technique (the hand moves first) - for speed 2.) Step & Slide Shuffle Retreat - step back with the rear foot and drag/slide your front foot - if he is kicking it won’t work because your front foot moves last - it is - with punches it is the opposite, it is a good intercepting footwork if a haymaker is thrown and you step & slide retreat with a finger jab (contort your body) eye jab on th way out 3.) Push Shuffle Advance - Push off the rear leg as you lift the front foot up - Helps for a power punch 4.) Push Shuffle Retreat - push off the front leg and lift up the rear leg - useful if someone is trying to kick your leg and you are in range for a counter (Thaikick) - with a punch you will get out of range too quick 5.) Right Side Step - (if you are in a right lead) move your right foot to the right first then follow to the right with your left foot (head id over your right knee) (uppercut elbow the shoulder (left) elbow the head (right) you will usually use the side step against the hook punches 6.) Left Side Step - (if you are in a right lead) move your left foot to the left first then follow to the left with your right foot (head id over your left knee) (uppercut elbow the shoulder (right) elbow the head (left) you will usually use the side step against the hook lines 7.) Curving Right - like circling more of a shoulder roll curve it is like a side step but a curve while covering (shoulder comes forward - usually used against a cross - you can then break his arm go into Tai Chi - can do an outside arm destruction then move left with the curve to Tai Chi to Thaikick/Knee 8.) Curving Left -  9.) Circling Right - visualize a radius - this is where Bruce broke away from Wing Chun - moving in a half circle go from a right lead to a left lead while moving the hands - 10.) Circling Left -  11.) Slide & Step Advance - used to kick him (shin/solar plexus/etc.) - rear leg slides forward past your front foot then you kick with the front leg or fake and step - cross stepping telegraphs - usually your foot will move to the place your front foot was or just in front of it - usually it is done with a fake (hand attack so they don’t see the footwork at all 12.) Slide & Step Retreat - if he tries to kick you slide your front foot backwards and step back with your rear foot 13.) Heel Toe Sway - in your stance you are up on your rear toe, but sometimes you have to reverse it - it the continuous switching of hell and toe - it helps to step back (rear foot is on heel) then burst forward with a hit (rear foot it up on toes to burst forward) - transferring your weight so it is balanced and even - he doesn’t know what you are going to do 14.) Rocker Step - it looks like you moved backwards (step & Slide) - if he jabs and you want to hit him back it takes too long to do the step & slide backwards to get out of the way then do the step& slide forward with a return hit - Instead when he throws the jab move backwards slightly but only have your rear foot on the ground to get out of the way then immediately push off and hit, this is the rocker shuffle - you rock backwards and shuffle forward - they look the same to your opponent because he only sees your upper body  
 15.) Rocker Shuffle - is when you are continuously alternating the foot you are on - front foot moves forward and rear foot moves backward - Bruce used it so you would never know when he was going to kick (savate to groin > Thaikick or oblique kick > come up high) - But we eliminated it because as we would rocker shuffle the Thaiboxers would take out our front leg and drop us 16.) Cross Step - same concept as rocker step to get out of the way of the jab - give him the illusion that you are retreating (come back with a Savate kick > Thaikick > slap > straight blast) - it is a good way to control distance - great with knife or stick fighting - front foot slides backwards crossing your rear foot - great with the lead switch or directional switches 17.) Pendulum (Forwards) - used for kicking and covering distance - geared for power and to get out of the way quickly (Pendulum with a power side kick and works to get out of the way of the side kick quickly, if you try a slide & step you won’t be able to get away fast enough - swing your body backwards) Rear foot hits the front foot or the reverse - practice getting out of the way and coming right in with a kick    18.) Pendulum (Backwards) -  19.) Lead Step - the fastest footwork in JKD - switch feet and hands at the same time 20.) Filipino Triangular Footwork (Zoning) (Footwork Unlimited!) - Learning how to zone to zero pressure - Everything is based on a triangle - have the cross on the floor - upside down and right side up triangles back to back (male and female) - When he throws a jab zone to the left (left foot forward with a nerve hit and it puts you in superior positioning (knee,/Straight Blast, etc.) - take the centerline theory of Wing Chun and add it to zoning and you get something entirely different - we zone on a radius - take a piece of tape and make triangles to practice (a bunch for continuous movement) Triangle Step Right (Advance) Triangle Step Left (Advance) Triangle Step Right (Retreat) Triangle Step Left (retreat) 24.) Step Thru 25.) Step Back 26.) hop 27.) Step & Hop 28.) Hopping 29.) Lead Step (jag step-3 ways)

JKD Defense

The 5 parries from Gung Fu:   1.)  The pat 2.)  The high left outside gate parry 3.)  The high right outside gate parry 4.)  The lower left outside gate parry 5.)  The lower right outside gate parry   *all parries can be done on each side (left and right lead) for a total of 10 parries   The 5 parries in conjunction with the finger jab   6.)  The pat 7.)  The left outside quarter parry 8.)  The right outside quarter parry 9.)  The lower left outside parry 10.) The lower right outside parry   *all parries can be done on each side (left and right lead) for a total of 10 parries/interceptions with the finger jab.   *In Jeet Kune Do we always try to intercept if possible, hence the name Jeet Kune Do (the way of the intercepting fist).   *The more chances one gives the opponent to hit the higher the chances are that one will be hit. Therefore when in doubt hit! This is known as an offensive defense.     x

JKD Entries

Kicks as Entries:   1.) Jeet Tek (intercept kick in Cantonese) 2.) Groin Kick (a Savate kick, or roundhouse kick) 3.) Thai Kick (comes from Muay Thai Boxing) 4.) Oblique kick (from Gung Fu and other various martial arts)   *If the opponent advances with a punch, then parry and apply the corresponding kick.   Destructions as Entries:   1.) Brachial nerve destruction 2.) Forearm nerve destruction 3.) Triceps nerve destruction 4.) Elbow destruction 5.) Left back fist nerve destruction   *Use a spear knuckle and bury it into the nerves of the opponent’s arm or hand to inflict a great deal of pain, then move in unharmed.   *Destructions are easier to pull off than interceptions, they require a lesser sense of timing, so they can be employed against faster opponents or more highly trained opponents. When an interception cannot be landed then Destroy!   *Now move around in your stance and incorporate interceptions (finger jabs and kicks), destructions, and parries against an imaginary opponent throwing various attacks at you (shadowboxing). This is important to develop reactions and to make sure you have the techniques ingrained in your subconscious. Constant repetition of shadowboxing will increase your speed as well.

Kickboxing

Basic Foundation

Jun Fan Kickboxing- Thai Boxing/Savate/Pananjkman/Panantukan- they are all practiced as full contact   Basic Stance- need to move- footwork- stance isn’t what blocks the strikes- be up on your toes and let footwork be the best means for defense Stance- feet shoulder width apart- take one step forward- get your hands up and you might want to drop your front hand slightly- left hand is like you are talking on the telephone- bend your knees and move around- be comfortable   Step and Slide- forward- push off the rear leg and go forward Step and Slide- backwards- push off the front leg and go backwards Cover Right- step to the right (right foot first) and forward and get right hand up to cover Cover Left- step to the left (left foot first) and forward and get left hand up to cover *practice step and slide backward/cover left/cover right against an opponent coming in with the jab- be able to evade with no contact   Upper Body Defensive Maneuvers:   Slip- left/right/backwards- left/right have head over knee- backwards is not used as much- lateral or backward Bob- right shoulder to left knee or left shoulder to right knee- the bob comes forward- you can do it in response to a tool or you can do it arbitrarily- practice both Weave- a bob that you pull out the other way- continually look at your opponent’s chest while you move- practice off of the jab (continually extended) and the hook punches- you don’t usually weave a jab but it is good practice Duck- upper torso remains unchanged- but the knees bend   Upper Body Tools:   Jab- shoots straight out and straight back- many ways to jab (shuffle with the jab), (lean into the jab), (just move the am), twist the hips with the jab), (shuffle backwards with the jab), etc. (experiment with them)- base way to jab use the step and slide and combine it with the turning of the shoulder and throw the punch, but make sure you protect with the other hand (touch your cheek) you can use a vertical fist or a horizontal fist and practice a twisting fist (it tends to cut the skin on contact)- you can use it as a stop-hit (interception) or as an offensive tool- you can probe with it to setup a combination -Pat or slip as the defense against the jab (always use footwork unless you are unable to) -Straight/side ways- don’t leave centerline- practice with footwork Cross- rear hand jab (it crosses past the body)- all body weight comes in with it- step out on a 45 degree angle- drive rear knee/leg forward- it usually follows the jab- rear leg is up on the toe -Shoulder roll as the defense- step out on a 45 degree angle- put head over rear leg while bending raise shoulder to bump the cross or raise the shoulder/elbow to bump (or destroy) Hook- the knee/hip come into play- rock your weight backwards from front to rear leg- elbow/wrist parallel to the ground- front leg up on toe- arm in a 90 degree angle or less- twist the hips -Cover for defense against the hook punch- bring your glove up to the head and squeeze your hand and elbow tight against yourself (hand is on/just above/just below the ear) and turn away from the punch to let your body absorb the blow Uppercut- the body mechanics are the same as the hook punch but the arm is punching vertically instead of horizontally- it is like you are digging -Cover to defend against the uppercut- keep your elbow in tight and put your glove just beneath your chin or right on your chin- similar to the hook cover Overhand- good if setup by the cross- zone when throwing it (45 degree angle) - starts from up above the head and descends- never initiate the overhand as a S.D.A. Elbow- same mechanics as the hook punch/uppercut/overhand (can be thrown from all the same angles) - if he bobs/weaves/ducks elbow his head Head butt- comes in when the hands are tied up *practice them in the mirror   Lower Body Tools:   Front Kick- from Thai Boxing- pick knee up- probe with it- kick descends and taps the knee, etc. - it probes just like the jab- it is a good reaction to pick up against anyone trying to kick your leg (destructions, attack, fake, etc.) Rear Kick- from Pananjakman- oblique kick- knee comes up and kick at their knee- another probing kick Front Roundhouse Kick- hook kick- another probing kick- replace the front foot with the rear foot (pendulum footwork)- aim for the inner thigh/groin/knee/shin- shuffle in and kick- knee and foot come up at the same time -also pat and lean back with the kick   Power Kicks-   Rear Kick- from Thai Boxing- use your instep to hit his thigh (if further away)- hit with the shin (if closer in) chop it down- angle out a little bit with the front leg before the kick Savate- pick up the knee then the kick descends and hits their thigh/groin/knee/- kick with the instep and it retracts quickly for another kick Side Kick- offensive and defensive- to thigh/knee/hip/ribs- pick up knee and it comes straight down and back- kick with the bottom of the foot (more solid) - it is a Jeet Tek as a defensive maneuver Savate Kick- your hips face the opponent turn first then kick up and out, pick up your knee (comes up the same no matter if it kicks the shin/knee/groin/solar plexus/throat/head) - he can never tell where it is going after the knee raises- if he blocks retract and hit another target instantly (if he blocks the solar plexus go to the throat) - it is a great kick for a P.I.A. Knee- targeting the siatic nerve, ribs, and groin- sometimes pull the body into the knee *always kick below the waist -kick high in sparring for aerobics -you wouldn’t punch a man in the toe so you wouldn’t kick him in the head -with Savate kicks you can afford to kick in jammed situations -Savate kicks are flicks- they don’t sound powerful when they land but it makes them nauseated and takes the fight out of them -for the side kick other martial arts kick with the “blade” of the foot this is because in olden times they used to tie rope with seashells on their shoes and actually kick with the blade, but in today’s world that isn’t exactly legal so we kick with the bottom of the foot -if your foot faces more to the left then side kick, if it is straight on or a little to the right use a hook kick   Lower Body Defensive Maneuvers:   Reverse pendulum if he tries to kick you Destroy the kick (defanging) - point your knee into their shin  Rear Leg Kick- point your shin out to the right  Front Leg Kick- point your shin out to the left Jeet Tek- stop-hit- use awareness and timing to intercept *progressively put the tools together   *One thing that Boxers have over all the Martial Arts is that they are always training full contact- they try to inflict pain and knockout the other man (not point sparring)   Clinch- put both hands on the opponents head or one on the head and one on the arm To cover knee- pull elbow in and turn away from it To knee in the clinch- pull their body to one side and knee that same side- pull on their upper body to add power To elbow in the clinch- horizontal/diagonal elbows work better   Equipment Training:   Practice your tools on the heavy bag- singly and in combination- it works your power, wind, and endurance- use small hand wraps so you don’t cut your hands if it isn’t a solid blow -have a trainer hold the bag while you hit it- his job is to watch you making sure there are no telegraphing blows/wind-ups/etc. and/or your hands are staying up and in good position -continually move while you hit the bag (stick and move) -switch leads -Exhale while you punch- no kiai (if you are hit your jaw will break) - keep teeth clenched -the closer you are to the bag/opponent the higher your hands have to be (don’t get hit!!!) -when kicking don’t drop your rear hand- you may get more power but you can’t get into trapping range economically (economy of motion)- dictates you keep your hands up (you lose 5-10% power but gain 100% economy of motion)- trap on the very next beat -go 1, 2, 3 minute rounds and work up to 5 2-3 minute rounds on the heavy bag -train with intensity!!!

Advanced Kickboxing

Advanced Techniques:   -advanced techniques are just simple techniques strung together Training Methods- focus gloves, Panantukan, low line kicking, and sparring   Focus Glove Drills-   -keep them awake/moving (on their toes)- it sharpens their accuracy/speed/endurance- throw the jab and let them duck/slip/bob/weave- throw the jab and give them a target (a counter) -throw the jab > hook (he bobs/weaves) > give another target Throw: · Jab · Double jab · Jab > cross · Jab > hook · Cross > hook · Hook > cross · Jab > cross > hook · Double jab > cross > hook · Cross > hook > cross · As attacks after defensive maneuvers · Double jab > hook · Double jab > cross · Overhand > uppercut > overhand · Uppercut > overhand > uppercut · Make him pat · Throw all these at him to work his defense · Switch up offense and defense · Shoulder stop with combinations (jab > hook –shoulder stop the hook) · Add in covers and attack · Thai kick (pick up knee) · Hook kick (shin)- pick up foot · Oblique kick- pick up foot · Savate to the groin- pick up knee and point it at their shin · String all together for longer combinations -when you use the Savate kick jab with the landing of the foot · Opponent hook kicks > pat it and hook kick > opponent Thai kicks > raise your leg and throw 2 oblique kicks and throw a Thai kick   Panantukan/Pananjakman- practice all tools in rhythms of three- singly and in combination- it works line familiarization/awareness/timing/rhythm- means Boxing/Kicking -aim to hit your partner (working offense and defense at the same time) -add slips/ducks/bobs/and weaves in the mix -practice the stomach shot with a slip off the jab > counter jab to the stomach- have partner exhale as the blow lands- develop pain tolerance- go with the blow and don’t breathe through the mouth (learn to take punishment) -work your cadence -some hits land/cover/counter- mix it up- this prepares you for sparring- it builds confidence -add Savate on cross in the middle of the rhythm to work on counter time -practice the counter time in the beginning, middle, and end -make sure to train high kicks, it isn’t for our offense but rather for defense incase you come across them in a fight, it also works well aerobically (practice spin crescent, hook, heel, side, and axe kicks)   Sparring Combinations:   -faking opens up other lines -front hand fake- the fake is only good if you connect the first time and on the very next beat throw a fake  Jab > fake > if he doesn’t move probe with the oblique kick- a one two action Jab > fake > if he backs off a little bit throw the rear leg hook kick (Thai kick) Jab > fake > if he doesn’t move Savate kick the solar plexus (up on an angle to out- can kick down to knee/groin after Jab > fake > if he takes a large step back shuffle and Savate kick the groin -front hand fake- if he raises his front hand to block > side kick his ribs or lower -front fake low jab > he drops his rear hand so Savate kick his throat/head > if he blocks that Savate kick his groin -add in one-two > if he turns then Thai Kick him *high kicks are best for the gym not the street!   Stop-Hits (Interceptions):   Opponent side kicks > Jeet Tek him > Savate (solar plexus) > Thai kick > he backs up > Savate high Opponent throws jab & hook > catch the jab and cover the hook but elbow the ribs to front knee to rear elbow Opponent throws jab & hook > catch elbow (grab with the right hand and elbow with the left to bicep/deltoid) Opponent throws jab & hook > catch rear elbow to grab and elbow- elbow the head (make sure you cover with the elbow) Opponent throws jab & hook > catch grab & elbow to elbow the head to grab and elbow to a knee Opponent throws jab & rear hook > same thing but can hook the hand and come over with the elbow (deltoid/head) or shoulder stop/shoulder roll/shoulder roll but elbow destruction to grab and elbow -when you close the gab with an elbow throw a knee -get in and trap- just use Kickboxing to get in (no one hit knockouts/no points) -practice getting H.K.E. after the jab -then Long Range > trap > H.K.E. -you have to be good at long range to get to Trapping Range -Long Range develops line familiarization, awareness, timing, rhythm, footwork, and pain tolerance -wait 3-5 months into Kickboxing to start  sparring- your form has to be down.

Pananjakman

kicking:   · Kicks are employed when the opponent backs up/turns/encroaches/stays still/covers high/etc. · Pull all kicks out of all energy drills     Pananjakman- rapid fire kicking art – a Filipino art of low line nerve destruction, kicks,ballistic knee attacks, footstomps, and footsweeps – all are done in conjuction with punches, traps, nerve destructions, and arm wrenches – it is a good street art but not aethetically pleasing – its main attribute is whatever you are doing in the upperline you can be throwing kicks at the same time on the lower line – usually when kicks are being thrown the upperbody is contorted to where upperbody strikes are not possible (which is why pananjakman abilities are highly desired for JKD) – it requires/builds separate coordination Targets- groin, knee, tendon behind the knee – many different shots   Oblique kick- aimed at the knee cap – flick it on/below the knee for training – it actuality you would kick through the knee – the same leg can go twice or it can alternate   Scoop kick- shuffle in come from the bottom and scoop the groin and come back   Inverted Heel Hook- to the knee’s tendon – but for training slap the thigh with the bottom of your foot   Low Round-House Kick- replace your front foot with your back foot and flick the groin with your toe   Rear Leg Hook Kick- less of a circle trajectory than the Thai kick – hit with the shin and attack the siatic nerve   Foot Stomp- used like a fake to gain attention – rear leg foot stomp – front foot stomp with a hop – and rear foot stomp with your instep pointing towards your opponent   Knees- rear knee that hits straight – rear knee that hooks slightly – front knee that shuffles in to the groin – or a fron knee to the thigh   Training Pananjakman: · Train them in rhythms of 3 – make contact – get used to taking punishment – you can beat someone (emotionally) if you can take punishment – learn to desensitize yourself – always practice out of movement · When practicing always go for specific targets   · The heart of pananjakman is being able to move the upperbody independently from the lower body · Pull Pananjakman out of all energy drills   Combinations: · Your opponent jabs – oblique kick while you parry/duck – if he backs up then oblique kick again – if he changes his lead then use your other leg to oblique kick · Your opponent jabs – oblique kick – if he pikes backward shuffle in and kick the groin – he can’t get away fast enough if you miss move to the rear leg hook kick/Thai kick - straight blast – H.K.E. · Initiate the shuffle and hook kick – he will flinch your fake then throw the Thai kick or Savate to the head · Initiate the shuffle and hook kick to the shin – thai kick – Savate to the Solar Plexus (if he moves back) · Your opponent jabs – use a brachial nerve destruction – oblique kick – left finger jab/right backfist · Your opponent jabs – Use a brachial nerve destruction – if he backs up shuffle and hook kick his groin – if he turns throw the Thai kick · Your opponent jabs – use a brachial nerve destruction – thai kick the thigh – savate kick the solar plexus · Your opponent jabs – Use a brachial nerve destruction – left finger jab – oblique kick – right backfist – savate kick to the solar plexus   · Gradually increase the contact · Now employ all Pananjakman kicks with him trying to hit you · Now employ combinations of Pananjakman with him trying to hit you · Now employ Pananjakman and nerve destructions/combinations with real hits coming in · Practice all against and in both leads · Do not give him time to breathe employ the straight blast – H.K.E. · Brachial nerve destruction puts you in range for the oblique kick (horizontal) · Elbow nerve destruction puts you in range for a groin kick (long range) · Practice all off of the jab, cross, hook, uppercut, overhand, and combinations · When he comes in put your knees in instead of pushing away · Now add front hand hits (groin slap/guntings/P.I.A./Trapping hands) in conjunction with kicks use fakes (P.I.A.) fake kick go in with a punch and vice versa · Now employ sweeps (singly and in combination) · Now employ the other hand (both hands/feet)   · Learn everything in a progression and then functionalize · Have your partner use a helmet and use full force traps/H.K.E./Pananjakman/Etc.     Savate- the same as pananjakman except they kick above the waist mostly – in JKD we do not kick above the waist but for training and sparring it is very nice to use (self-perfection) – the main thing about savate is if it goes out at 50 it comes back at 100 – it is a shoe art – they throw zipping/popping kicks quickly – they attack the organs: kidneys, solar plexus, groin, behind the ears, ribs, etc. – it is boxing with the feet – combine in hubud for multiple coordination – the minute he blocks in hubud throw a savate kick at the ribs · Pull savate out of all energy drills.

Thai Pad Drills

Basic Combination (Progressions):   *4 Count Combinations: (Done In Both Leads)   1.) Rear Kick - Lead Hook - Rear Cross - Lead Kick 2.) Lead Kick - Rear Cross - Lead Hook - Rear Kick 3.) Rear Kick - Lead Hook - Rear Cross - Rear Kick 4.) Lead Kick - Rear Cross - Lead Hook - Lead Kick   Basic Elbows: (Done In Both Leads)   1.) Downward Elbow 2.) Upward Elbow 3.) Snap Elbow   Elbow Drills: (Done In Both Leads)   1.) Two Downward Elbows 2.) Two Downward Elbows - Two Snap Elbows - Two Downward Elbows 3.) Downward Elbow - Snap Elbow - Downward Elbow 4.) Jab - Cross - Two Downward Elbows - Snap Elbow   Basic Knees: (Done In Both Leads)   1.) Skip Knee - One 2.) Skip Knee - Two 3.) Double Knee 4.) Side Knee 5.) Twisting Knee 6.) Knee To The Ribs 7.) Knee To The Temples   Knee Drills: (Done In Both Leads)   1.) Side Knee - Skip Knee 2.) Double Knees - Skip Knees   Basic Kicks: (Done In Both Leads)   1.) Right & Left Kicks 1 - 5 (Up To 20 Sets) 2.) Foot Jab (Tiip)   Kick & Cover Drills: (Done In Both Leads)   1.) Right Kick - Cover (Shield) - Right Kick 2.) Right Kick - Cover - (Soft) Right Kick - Two Left Kicks 3.) Right Kick - Cover - (Soft left) Cut Kick - Two Right Kicks 4.) Parry Left Foot Jab - (Soft) Right Kick - Two Left Kicks 5.) Parry Right Foot Jab - (Soft) Left Kick - Two Right Kicks   15 Count:    
  1.) Parry Cross Outside 2.) Cover Left Hook 3.) Left Elbow 4.) Right Elbow 5.) Right Knee 6.) Left Kick 7.) Right Cross 8.) Left Hook 9.) Right Knee 10.) Right Kick 11.) Left Foot Jab Under Cross 12.) Slip Outside Cross 13.) Left Hook 14.) Right Cross 15.) Right Kick   Thai Pad Progressions: Intermediate Drills   Long Range Combination #1: Long Range Combination #2:   1.) Right Kick 1.) Left Kick 2.) Right Knee 2.) Left Knee 3.) Left Elbow 3.) Right Elbow 4.) Right Elbow 4.) Left Elbow 5.) Left Push 5.) Right Push 6.) Two Right Kicks 6.) Two Left Kicks 7.) Left Foot Jab 7.) Right Foot Jab 8.) Left Kick 8.) Right Kick 9.) Right Cross 9.) Left Hook 10.) Left Hook 10.) Right Cross 11.) Right Kick 11.) Left Kick   Close Range Combination #1: Close Range Combination #2: 1.) Parry Right Cross 1.) Parry Left Cross 2.) Right Knee 2.) Left Knee 3.) Left Elbow 3.) Right Elbow 4.) Right Elbow 4.) Left Elbow 5.) Left Push 5.) Right Push 6.) Two Left Kicks 6.) Two Left Kicks   Thai Pad Progressions: Knee Reaction Drills:   Split Entry Straight Right Right Knee - Unwind Left Elbow Right Elbow Left Push - Two Right Kicks Split Entry Straight Left Left Knee - Unwind Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Scoop the Left Foot Jab Right Knee Left Elbow Right Elbow Left Push - Two Right Kicks Scoop the Right Foot Jab Left Knee - Unwind  
  Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Catch the Right Kick Right Knee Left Elbow Right Elbow Left Push - Two Right Kicks Catch the Left Kick Left Knee - Unwind Right Elbow Left Knee - Unwind Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Knee Under the Cross Right Knee Left Elbow Right Elbow Left Push - Two Right Kicks Knee Under the Jab Left Knee - Unwind Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Parry the Straight Right Right Grab Right Knee Left Elbow Right Elbow Left Push - Two Right Kicks Parry the Straight Left Left Grab Left Knee Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Cover Wide Right Left Knee Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Cover Wide Left Right Knee Left Elbow Right Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Wrap the Left Grab to Waist Right Knee Left Elbow Right Elbow Left Push - Two Right Kicks Wrap the Right Grab to Waist Left Knee Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks Duck Under Wide Right Right Knee - Unwind  
  Left Elbow Right Elbow Left Push - Two Right Kicks Duck Under Wide Left Left Knee - Unwind Right Elbow Left Elbow Right Push - Two Left Kicks   Thai Pad Progressions: Additional Drills:   Kicking Drills:   Kicking Cover Series: Intercept Series:   Cover Outside - Two Kicks Cut Kick - Two Kicks Cover Outside - Two Switch Kicks (Same Leg) Tiep: Leg - Two Kicks Cover Inside - Cross - Hook - Two Kicks Body - Two Kicks Cover Inside - Foot Jab (Support Leg) - Two Kicks Kicking Leg - Two Kicks Evade Outside - Two Kicks Jab into Kick - Two Kicks Evade Inside - Two Kicks Pivot & Kick (Float) - Two Kicks Evade High Kick - Two Kicks Cover - Cut Kick - Two Kicks   Foot Jab Series: Catch Series:   Foot Jab (Body) - Two Kicks Catch Over - Two Kicks Foot Jab (Leg Level) - Two Kicks Catch Under - Two Kicks Foot Jab - Two Kicks (Same Leg) High Catch - Two Kicks Cover - Foot Jab (Same Leg) - Two Kicks Scoop Foot Jab - Two Kicks Elbow Parry Foot Jab - Two Kicks Leg Parry Foot Jab - Two Kicks   Groin Kick Series: Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Two Kicks Groin Kick - Cover Outside - Two Kicks Groin Kick - Cover Inside - Cross - Hook - Two Kicks Groin Kick - Evade Outside - Two Kicks Groin Kick - Evade Inside - Two Kicks Groin Kick - Cover - Cut Kick - Two Kicks   Thai Pad Progressions: Additional Drills   Specialty Drills:   Body Mechanics Drill: Groin Kick - Cover - Two Kicks - Scoop or Leg Parry - Foot Jab - Two Kicks   Ranges: Two Kicks - Two Knees - Two Elbows (Same Side or Alternate Sides) - Repeat or - Two Kicks - Two Knees - Two Kicks - or - Two Right Kicks - Hook - Cross - or - Two Left Kicks - Cross - Hook   Conditioning Drills:   1-2-3-4-5 Kicks x 20 Sets Jab - Cross Round Foot Jab - Two Kicks & Above Two Drills Five Kicks - Ten Knees - Five Kicks Switch Kick - Five Knees - Five Kicks - Five Kicks Switch Two Kicks - Cross - Hook - Five Kicks - Five to Ten Knees - Five Kicks  
  Knees - Five Kicks Knee Drills Two Straight Knees Two Side Knees Side Knee - Upward Knee Skip Knee (#1) Skip Knee (#2) Groin Kick - Two Knees Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Two Knees Jab - Cross - Two Knees Jab - Cross - Hook - Two Switch Knees Duck Under (High Grab) - Two Curve Knees Arm Wrap (Over) - Two Knees Catch Kick (Over) - Two Knees Parry Cross - Two Knees Split Entry - Two Knees   Elbow Drills:   Two Downward Elbows Two Upward Elbows Upward Elbow - Two Downward Elbows Two Downward Elbows - One Snap Elbow - Two Downward Elbows Upward Elbow - Downward Elbow - Snap Elbow Shield Inside - Two Downward Elbows Sheild Outside - Two Downward Elbows Jab - Two Downward Elbows Jab - Cross - Two Downward Elbows Jab - Snap Elbow - Downward Elbows Cover Kick - Two Downward Elbows Downward Elbow - Upward Elbow - Downward Elbow Snap Elbows - Two Downward Elbows   Thai Pad Progressions: Additional Drills:   This is how the Jab - Cross Round should look:   1.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Two Right Kicks - Hook - Cross 2.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Two Left Kicks - Cross - Hook 3.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Two Right Knees - Left Elbow - Right Elbow 4.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Two Left Knees - Right Elbow - Left Elbow 5.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Right Kick - Left Knee - Right Kick - Left Hook - Right Cross Once though in a Left Lead, repeat the series in a Right Lead. Keep Going through the sequence as many times as you can during the round, alternating leads each time you complete the series.   The Jab - Cross Round:   Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Two Right Kicks - Two Left Kicks Two Right Knees - Two Left Knees Right Kick - Right Knee - Right Kick Left Kick - Left Knee - Left Kick Right Knee - Right Kick - Right Knee Left Knee - Left Kick - Left Knee Right Kick - Left Kick - Right Kick Left Kick - Right Kick - Left Kick Cross - Hook or Hook - Cross after above kicks - Left Elbow Right Elbow or Right Elbow - Left Elbow after knees   6.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Left Kick - Right Knee - Left Kick - Right Cross - Left Hook  
 7.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Right Knee - Left Kick - Right Knee - Left Elbow - Right Elbow 8.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Left Knee - Right Kick - Left Knee - Right Elbow - Left Elbow 9.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Right Kick - Left Kick - Right Kick - Left Hook - Right Cross 10.) Groin Kick - Jab - Cross - Left Kick - Right Kick - Left Kick - Right Cross - Left Hook   The Jab - Cross Series:   The Jab - Cross Series is a series of combinations taught to develop sound body mechanics as well as agressive striking skills. This series of combinations requires patience in learning, but once the basic pattern is understood, the order of the combinations is easily retained.

Straight Blast

“In absolutely every serious altercation that I ever saw Bruce Lee in, he would execute a Straight Blast to his opponent.”   -Dan Inosanto   The Straight Blast comes from Wing Chun Gung Fu. The Cantonese term is “Jik Chung.” Wing Chun is the only Chinese martial art that Bruce Lee truly studied in an in-depth and formal fashion for a prolonged period of time (five years). He learned the art from renowned master Yip Man.   Many of Jeet Kune Do’s trapping skills, the centerline theory (called “Jung Seen Choy” in Cantonese), and some concepts and principles come from Wing Chun Gung Fu.   The Straight Blast is a very pivotal technique in Jeet Kune Do, but most people are unaware of its existence. Most people have experienced Bruce Lee’s Jeet Kune Do through his movies (which is more self-perfection JKD which you will learn about later), but only those who trained closely with Bruce (less than twenty people) have experienced Bruce’s functional Jeet Kune Do (street fighting). Bruce Lee was very aware of what “looked good” on the silver screen, but also he knew what actually worked in street fighting, which is why he used the Straight Blast, but next to no one saw it.   Throughout his life Bruce Lee gave many different demonstrations, and he was very aware of what impressed the eyes of martial artists or veteran street fighters and what impressed the eye of the public. Bruce’s most famous demonstration was at Ed Parker’s Long Beach Internationals, where he sparred full contact with Dan Inosanto and a few of his other instructors. One can see several kicks to the head, but no thigh or groin kicks. Watching Bruce’s foot effortlessly kick his opponent’s face at will with lightning speed was astonishing.   If you see someone execute a Straight Blast it is not the most impressive sight in Martial Arts, and would probably look a little silly. But, the entire art of Jeet Kune Do was formulated around getting into the Straight Blast. The reason Bruce spent a lifetime developing the ability to burst forward with incredible pressure because no art learns how to fight running backwards.   The Straight Blast (when executed properly, i.e. after an effective entry) takes away your opponent’s balance, so not only can he not attack effectively, but he has to do all that he can to stop himself from falling over or being knocked out.   In Gung Fu there is a stance called the “Crane” stance. You may remember the crane stance from a movie called “Karate Kid” starring Ralph Machio, but if you did not then, picture someone up on one leg, with his arms locked out, imitating the bird known as the crane but also hopping backward with his arms flopping around. The image of this resembles a wounded bird; hence Bruce’s favorite expression was used when he wanted one of his instructors to execute a Straight Blast in a sparring session, Bruce would say, “Put him in the “Wounded Crane!”   In Jeet Kune Do the Straight Blast was and still is the single most important thing to do in a fight. No art practices their techniques while running backwards and being punched in the face five times in less than a second. The Straight Blast gives your opponent a clouded brain, which makes it easy to finish the fight unharmed in seconds.   The Straight Blast is the best tool/training method we have to honing the killer instinct attribute. Bruce referred to the Straight Blast and trapping techniques as “The Rally.”

How to Straight Blast

We roll our fists as we move forward. Your hands always stay in centerline while blasting. If your fists are in centerline then your opponents fists are not. If you are going in with forward pressure then there is a time and place where this will be your opponents worst nightmare.   Throw three to five punches while you sprint. Sometimes practice just sprinting and notice how your body counterbalances, it will/should do the same while Straight Blasting. It may look a little silly but it is one of the most highly effective things you can learn. But you must isolate the Straight Blast at first and then develop it in a progression (gradually increase the number of your opponent’s available tools, and your pressure). Always practice the Entry from an alive position not like techniques in Karate (Bruce used to call it dissecting a corpse because of their stagnant stances and blind devotion to systematic patterns/katas (uselessness)).   In 1964 Bruce introduced the Straight Blast to his students. While seeing this for the first time “The Boxer” thought he could hook around it, “The Wrestler” thought he could shoot low and use a double leg takedown, and “The Karate” man noticed that it could not possibly have any power since the punches do not come from the hip. But all of their preconceived notions flew out the window when they felt the pressure of the Straight Blast first hand! The Straight Blast is extremely dangerous if used at the right place and right time, but it must be employed at the mid point of the fight.   *WE DO NOT ENTER WITH THE STRAIGHT BLAST!*   *YOU CANNOT USE THE STRAIGHT BLAST UNTIL YOU HAVE ALREADY INFLICTED PAIN OR A FLINCH UPON YOUR OPPONENT!*   When a Wing Chun practitioner Straight Blasts they keep the same leg forward (to protect the groin); Bruce noticed that it is much more effective and damaging if it is employed with a tremendous forward burst of energy. If you are Straight Blasting someone then he has no time to see your groin let alone hit it.   Some Wing Chun practitioners advocate locking your elbows out and some tell you to keep them bent, I recommend to keep the elbows slightly bent for two reasons, one the arm is its strongest when slightly bent and two to protect your elbows from becoming damaged.   The point of the Straight Blast is to apply as much pressure as is possible on your opponent. You cannot just stand there passively waiting or you will be countered easily. This is where Bruce saw some of the limitations of Wing Chun, they would passively wait and then initiate the Straight Blast with the same leg forward in a defensive mode. Bruce saw that moving around with aliveness (like a Boxer) and employing stop hits, finger jabs, Savate/Thai kicks, Fencing concepts, and some things he invented in long range fighting. Once he touched with them then he would do the 40 yard dash down the opponent’s centerline sending them into the wounded crane stance.   Inflict pain with a finger jab, groin shot, destruction, etc.; then on the very next beat continue in with the Straight Blast (go for 3 to 5 punches to the face) usually at about the third beat the opponent will react.   First practice it solely off the jab (entry to Straight Blast), then only off the cross, then only off the hook, then the jab and cross, then the jab and hook, then the cross and hook, then the jab cross and hook. Next practice it off low line kicks (using a nerve destruction on their kicks) and then move in. Then off the uppercut and overhand, and finally off a hit when the opponent is able to use any long range weapon.   *Once you make your entry you need to go all out – the last thing you want is for there to be a separation – this may be your only chance so use it!   If you are fighting against a Boxer, don’t box him! Go for a groin hit or thigh kick and use that moment in time you inflicted pain to move into a form of pressure unlike anything they have ever seen before.

Techniques to Use during the Straight Blast:

1.) If he back peddles then throw a Savate kick to the groin 2.) If he turns away to his left throw a Thai kick to the thigh 3.) If he covers throw an oblique kick to distract 4.) If he back peddles use Tai Chi 5.) If he pushes you away then arm wrench 6.) The more ballistic of a hit after the Straight Blast the better (head butts, knees, and elbows) 7.) Practice being calm, then initiate the Straight Blast but stop yourself in the middle of it and revert back to calmness, learn to control your emotional make-up 8.) Always Blast with INTENSITY (the most important thing)   *His energy will dictate what you should do next. *Practice the Straight Blast against a ground fighter (theoretically a Wing Chun man should never get taken to the ground because of the occupying centerline principle). If you are fighting as ground fighter/wrestler do not let him get his arms around you, as soon as he encroaches stop hit, finger jab or kick.   These are training methods for the Straight Blast. Bruce saw that Martial Arts should be trained for like sports. He did not mean sport fighting, but to train in a progression like all sports do, make you an athlete.   You must also train the Blast against a professional Boxer, a professional Thai Boxer, and a professional Ground fighter/Wrestler. You must put yourself in a vulnerable position to find the cause of your ignorance. Learn how to enter in on these men and you will never have any problems getting the Straight Blast off in a fight.

Trapping Hands

Basic and Intermediate Trapping

All arts fit into 4 ranges: Kicking- extension of the leg Boxing- extension of the arm Trapping- closer arm hitting range where H.K.E. can be landed Grappling- throwing or ground fighting   -each range has a certain amount of tools -Trapping Range is the most combative range with the most amount of tools- use functional JKD in this range   Range: Tools: Kicking Kicks, destructions Boxing Punches, destructions, some low line kicks Trapping H.K.E., teeth, traps, locks, chin, shoulder (bump), inner/outer forearm, hip (bump), butt (rear bump), some low line kicks, destructions Grappling teeth, chin, locks, chokes, punches, heel kicks   -The real fight starts in trapping range JKD is a blend of arts/ranges/techniques/concepts/training methods/etc. Arts/techniques that do not fit into JKD are anything that is hip chambered and/or goes against our concepts/principles From the arts we only use 5-10%, sometimes it is only a mentality or a technique or a concept or a training method -No one else knows trapping range! Know the techniques, know how and when to blend them, know the attributes that each range takes (in trapping range it is sensitivity)   Trapping Concepts:   You have to get through kicking/boxing range by a stop-hit (interception) or destructions (defanging the snake) then we go into trapping range How to trap: any way you want- where ever your body feels best is where you want to be- no lead/stance- just be responsive Put Wing Chun/locking/Dumog/Thai Boxing/Kina Mutai/Kali/etc. in trapping combinations Don’t get hung up on what position your hands/feet are in- you don’t have time to worry   Combinations:   · Gunting (brachial) with zoning > left finger jab > backfist o If he raises his front hand > locking o If he shoulder rolls > knee his thigh/groin o If he blocks with the rear hand > inside pak sao o If he blocks with the rear hand > jut sao o If he blocks with the rear hand > lop sao o If he crosses > boang sao > lop sao > elbow o If he crosses > boang sao > raise to Dumog (push) > elbow -sensitivity training lets you know when to do what without any thought   Pak Sao- thumb doesn’t grab (inside) with bridge -if on your finger jab he straightens front arm > rear cross > knee (immediate) > inside foot sweep -when you are in trapping range fire at him a thousand times per second- just flow! · Entry > Straight Blast (punches) > knees > Straight Blast (punches) > elbows Destruction: he side kicks grab his leg and elbow > punch > trap Brachial Gunting is a horizontal gunting Elbow destruction is a vertical gunting *(if hands are high use front/rear elbow) Triceps gunting is a vertical gunting · Vertical gunting > finger jab (1 motion/1 hand) > he parries (crosses centerline) > wedge > double pak > grab his head > send, catch & elbow > head butt > knee > takedown > finish -if the opponent feints a cross and you turn to shoulder roll so he throws a jab parry with your left hand while zoning away from his rear hand and finger jab with your front hand (1 motion) if it isn’t 1 motion you will lose it -always practice the top first (traps) then add the bottom (footwork, knees, etc.) Destructions are done in Sumbrada range (rear hand checks) If you are leaning on your right parry across with your right and use a left finger jab -always equate your techniques against the line of attack not the technique! -jabs and crosses are the same lines so treat them the same (destructions) If he uses the rear hook- parry with the outside hand and finger jab If he winds up use a stop-hit immediately- do not give him time to throw it (no parry needed)   Destructions Against Kicks:   Side kick: Low- pick up your knee and point it  Low/Middle- slap and front elbow to the muscle/ankle  Middle/High- catch and knee the ankle and kick the groin with the same foot  High- lean back and kick the groin with your front foot  *follow all of them up with a finger jab on the very next beat! Roundhouse Kick (same as the hook kick and crescent kick)  Low- to the thigh or shin- raise your knee and point it into their shin  Middle- elbow the shin quickly High- catch and elbow rake upward on the inner shin and knee it too (practice with both the front and rear) Spin Kick don’t wait for it- kick him in the back (lumbar region)  *but for training kick the butt *Knee always takes care of the low line *Elbow takes care of the waist up   Range: Most Important Attributes: Kicking Limberness Boxing Endurance Trapping Sensitivity Grappling Strength   Chi Sao- Wing Chun energy development- straight line energy Hubud- Kali energy development- zoning energy- means to tie and untie the arms- gets you from long range to close to back out -work up on speed   Out of Hubud: · Pull horizontal gunting (brachial)- on parry pull it out to simulate the gunting · Pull elbow destruction (vertical) out- on parry pull back a little bit further   -opponent’s energy dictates what to do next   Pananjakman- low line kicking in trapping range · Oblique kick- while punching/traps/destructions are going- bring knee up first then turn and kick · Rear Leg Hook Kick- like Savate- even if he covers his body kick he kidney Thai Boxing- drill your shin into their thigh   Trapping Range has the most tools at your disposal   Wing Chun Dummy is to trapper what the heavy bag is to a Boxer; you can work all your trapping range tools on the wooden dummy.

Advanced Trapping Hands

-Now we are going to try to put traps together in a different way -This is more advanced because it is more difficult   *In training we do 95% traps and 5% punches, but in a real fight we do 5% traps and 95% punches   Harmonious Spring Drill: Jut sao and punch with one hand on the hand that punches you will stick and boang sao, on the hand that does not punch you will stick and tan sao (a simultaneous boang and tan is called a kuan sao)   We are going to practice traps while incorporating Sumbrada: a continuous flow/counter for counter -start out with the pak sao > partner jao sao (the ear) > raise a tan sao to block and throw a punch > partner jut sao and punches with one hand > kuan sao and use an inside pak sao > partner parries it and jao sao the kidney/groin to a punch (with the knife you would cut the kidney and throat) -Now it starts over in a continuous flow   Numerada with Nerve Hits: Get in about 3 nerve hits then flow into a lock Line familiarization- zone to zero pressure (footwork)- reflexes (counter for counter)- spatial relationships Then gear up and go for it full contact! Now put in Dumog with locking to bring in a different element Now put in foot sweeps (inside/outside/rear leg (on rare occasion)/or both legs)   *Isolate things to expedite training   Add trapping to Numerada Add Tai Chi (an art to shove a body- into a window/car/table/etc.) (its very useful in mass attacks (like Straight Blast & Dumog) Put all arts in the matrix of Numerada   Self-Perfection- not actually hitting- when we need that energy/those attributes- use Sumbrada/Numerada to enhance it.

Energy Drills

What is energy/pressure/sensitivity?- a lot of different arts have these – it teaches you the ability to read someone’s pressure if you are in trapping range you need to touch · Wing Chun uses Chi Sao – energy comes into play after the straight blast – their energy is two hands on – forward pressure · Kali uses hubud – zone to zero pressure – one hand on and one hand off · Energy is not about tension/fighting – it is about reading & rolling around pressure, etc. · The only way to gain energy/sensitivity (an attribute) is by practicing with someone who is proficient · Flow - be natural- have proper structure · Energy drills give you the attribute/ability to pull your techniques off in a fight · Practice all your techniques and combinations out of all energy drills · Energy drills teach you line familiarization so you attack/defend according to the line not what type of tool it is · Energy drills help you to adapt to the angle – like water! · “All the energy/sensitivity drills you do is for a split microsecond once the clinch occurs” –Dan Inosanto   Lop Sao Drill: · Elbows are pinned together (upperarm parallel to the ground) – pull his arm down (he boang saos) and you backfist now he deoes the same to you, so it is continuous – you can do it straight on (Wing Chun way) or you can do it with a backfist (JKD modified way) · Lop sao teaches you how to get ahold of a handle · In energy do not be worried where your big toe is – as long as you have an athleticism in your step and the right energy you are fine   To Switch from Lop Sao to lop sao: 1. Grab the hand that grabs you – pull and punch 2. throw a rear cross (if he parries with a fuk) grab and backfist the other side   To Switch from Lop Sao to Hubud: · When you throw the backfist grab their hand when they grab you – then pull slightly – slap and hit   To Switch from Lop Sao to Chi Sao: · When your partner parries your backfist fire your rear hand in when they fuk Sao to block it give forward pressure and begin to roll   Hubud: · It came from stick fighting (close-quarters) · Touch and go – cohesion then a slap and strike · Zone – one hand to check · Comes from an angle 1 in seminars we use a widened angle to teach it faster so they can see what we are doing   · A kali man gives centerline forcing the opponent to come straight – then he zones   To Switch from Hubud to Lop Sao: 1. Out of hubud after the raise grab his right arm with your right hand – line up your elbows – pull and backfist 2. Out of Hubud after the raise – slap – and throw a backfist to work off of the left arm – lop sao and line the elbows up – pull and backfist   To Switch from Hubud to Chi Sao: 1. out of hubud when you parry the angle 1 make it an outside parry and give pressure with both hands 2. Out of hubud when you raise pull back and throw a rear cross while keeping your hands on and giving forward pressure   Chi Sao: · Has very intricate movements · In wing Chun it takes 4 years to move from Don Chi to Chi Sao · 4 positions (2 inside) – (2 outside) – (1 in & 1 out) – (1 out & 1 in) · chi sao is the ability to read energy off the clinch · Centerline- never cross your nose with either hand · a good wing chun man will not be taken to the ground because of the centerline principle · Always give constant forward pressure – in emptiness straight blast · Keep chi sao tight – have your hands almost touching or slightly touching to “Cheat” · A wing chun man occupies centerling forcing the opponent to hook – then he moves straight in   Right Hand Chi Sao: · outside hand (left Hand) must have the elbow in to occupy centerline - can move from a tan sao to a fuk sao - or a fuk sao to a fuk sao · inside hand (right hand) moves from a boang sao to a tan sao (like pouring a drink) · elbows should be only a few inches off of the body keeping hands close but not crossing centerline · if the elbow is raised with the fuk then the punch goes right in   Left Hand Chi Sao: · outside hand (left Hand) must have the elbow in to occupy centerline - can move from a tan sao to a fuk sao - or a fuk sao to a fuk sao · inside hand (right hand) moves from a boang sao to a tan sao (like pouring a drink)   Double in Chi Sao: · Chi sao with both of your hands on the inside reference point · Both hands move from a boang sao to a tan sao (alternating)   Double out Chi Sao: · Chi sao with both of your hands in the outside reference point · Both hands move from a fuk sao to a tan sao (alternating) – or a fuk sao to a fuk sao   Switch from Chi Sao to Lop Sao: 1. During Chi Sao manipulate their fuk sao to over extend then Lop Sao their fuk sao 2. During Chi Sao when you have a simultaneous fuk sao and tan sao lop their tan sao   Switch from Chi Sao to hubud: 1. During Chi Sao manipulate their Fuk Sao to overextend then lop sao their fuk sao – slap and hit – If you are in right handed Chi Sao it will put you in left handed hubud 2. During Chi Sao when you are at fuk sao and tan sao – slide your hand to raise – slap and hit   Nerve Destructions: · Destroy nerves When punching him or when destructions arise · A means to an end · Nerves run on the back of the hand – nerves before the muscle of the forearm – nerve center the size of a quarter adjacent to the elbow – across the joint to the brachial nerve (funny bone) – from the elbow up the outside of the arm (middle) – up into the armpit – into the deltoid · When in hubud off of the raise put in a forearm nerve destruction – always finger jab but in a clinch destroy nerves or employ destructions when the finger jab is blocked   Footsweeps: · We don’t look for or chase the footsweeps · They are incidental if not accidental · Out of hubud grab the shirt and hook with your foot/leg on the inside or outside of either leg · Pull sweeps out of Hubud   Energy Drills: Elements:   Chi sao Dumog  Tai Chi  Locking Hubud pananjakman  Savate  Thaiboxing Lop Sao Sweeps  Nerve hits  Panantukan  Wing Chun Traps  H.K.E.   · Practicing these makes you functional · You need the wisdom to flow from one opponent to another no matter what their discipline/style/tastes · Bury your hips on a partner with pads/equipment when you master the technique to functionalize it · Then have both people have equipment on and spar! 

Wooden Dummy Training

Mook Jong

The wooden dummy is known as the Mook Jong- it is the last thing a Wing Chun instructor teaches his students We teach the Jun Fan method on the wooden dummy not the traditional Wing Chun way -Jun Fan is more aggressive/diversified in approach (no stances/more free) It teaches coordination/conditions forearms/works technical skill/increases speed/line familiarization/can practice repetition The dummy is in a fixed position- it represents trapping range (which is why the limbs are half length, if they were full it would be Boxing range you are practicing) In the Wing Chun method there were 108 movements   Techniques:   · Pak Sao- slapping hand- Wing Chun predicates form- we do not, foot position does not matter · Pak sao > inside pak sao · Pak sao > lop sao (straight and with backhand) · Pak sao > lop sao > pak sao (right hand slaps)   Lop Sao- grabbing hand/pulling hand- twist the trunk of your body and punch with your rear hand- you don’t need to put your thumb all the way around their arm- the turning of the body is important- punch as straight as possible to cover your centerline   Techniques:   · Pak sao > lop sao (just the front hand) (a nice 1-2 if he fights push elbow bends to a boang sao) · Lop sao > pak sao (just the front hand) · Lop sao > pak sao > lop sao (if he fights the pak sao pull with the lop sao)   Jao Sao- running hand- high jao sao (ear)- low jao sao (groin)- wrist circles around while other hand checks- keep as tight as you can- jao sao and slap or jao sao and hook   Jut Sao- jerking hand- if you yank he might not move or head butt- tiny jerk to a punch > bridge > punch- jut sao and shift body to switch   Man Sao- front hand technique/block   Wu Sao- rear hand technique/block   Low-Reference Point- a block of some sort- low jab- pak sao with backfist while shuffling in- 1 sound   Technique:   · Parry lower hand (low-reference point) then slap and hit the upper arm > punch/eye jab/chop   Add Traps Together:   · Pak sao > pak sao · Pak sao > lop sao · Pak sao > jao sao · Pak sao > jao sao > jut sao · Low jao sao > pak sao > inside pak sao · Low jao sao > pak sao > lop sao · Low jao sao > pak sao > jao sao > jut sao · Low jao sao > pak sao > high jao sao > pak sao > inside pak sao · Low jao sao > pak sao > high jao sao > pak sao > lop sao   Filipino Martial Arts Traps:   Pak sao- has to be better if the person has a knife- more sensitive/cohesive- slap on the elbow instead of the forearm -it is called a Tapi in the Filipino Martial Arts   Lop Sao- the punching arm is pressed against the trapped arm -it is called heline in the Filipino Martial Arts   · Gunting (brachial) open hand slap on dummy > backfist/eye jab > eye jab > backfist (with hand check) > pak sao (front or rear) > inside pak sao/lop sao   Now add in elbows on the dummy (Kali)   · Elbow destruction (grazing) > left elbow to the forearm > right elbow to the humerous · He can parry so you would pak sao > elbow to humerous > left elbow to the head · He can parry so you would lop sao > double pak (from the Filipino Martial Art) > left elbow to the humerous > right elbow to the head   Kicks:   Oblique- as an entry into trapping- in conjunction with traps (as a half beat) Knee- precede or follow- or in conjunction with traps (as a half beat) Front Hook/Savate (roundhouse)- toe kick- entry or following/in conjunction with traps -always get into trapping on the very next beat   On Dummy:   · Gunting (brachial) > oblique kick (half beat)/Savate > backfist · Gunting (brachial) > knee (half beat) > backfist > trap > end with oblique kick/Savate kick/Knee     -Trapping hands is removing an obstacle so you can continue punching, it is a byproduct of hitting -know your reference points -when you practice on the Wing Chun Dummy you go through people like butter -work all your techniques off of both arms on the dummy -change leads and footing -when you can move the dummy you can send the person flying -there is no stance, everything is based off of feel -on the dummy timing/sensitivity/tightness of the trap count -play with it/train with it -pull out elbow and knees on the dummy -practice your timing and rhythm on the dummy (full/half/quarter/and eight beats) -practice high-low-high to be a more effective trapper -Chi Sao the dummy- smooth- switching leads -pull on the dummy (one hand on the arm and one hand behind the neck) > an explosive trap  .

Headbutts, Knees & Elbows

(H.K.E.):

Head Butts, Knees & Elbows  · When you can head butts knees & elbows use them! – they are unfamiliar to street fighters, boxers, kickboxers, karate men, etc. · They are utilized in trapping range · We trap up the hands using Wing Chun traps then move into H.K.E. · These are ballistic hits that take any size man out of commission · Our way (bruce’s way) of throwing a head butt incorporates Thaiboxing, wing Chun, and Kali’s rhythm, this is totally unfamiliar with everyone else   · To get into trapping range safely you need countless hours in Kickboxing until you can get into clinch/trapping range safely/effectively – then we throw kickboxing/boxing out and implement traps from wing chun to trap the hands up so we can H.K.E. safely/effectively · After the battle punch (straight blast) you needs to use H.K.E to take the big men out of commission   Trapping Range: · When in the clinch there are always one or two lines of attack open 1. high line- head butts 2. mid line- elbows/punches 3. low line- knees kicks · if all 3 lines of attack are closed then the two people are not fighting · find the open line in the clinch and hit it · Wing Chun ensures that you will get a clean H.K.E. shot in   Body Mechanics: 1. Head butt- put the top of your head into their face (nose/cheek) while pulling his face into your head 2. Elbow- the mechanics are the same as in the hooks or uppercuts- torque the body – only elbow with the last inch (the size of a quarter) of your elbow- throw grazing hits on their head/nerves 3. Knee- only hit with the knee cap – penetrate straight in not up (psiatic nerve, groin, ribs, thigh) · Body mechanics are hard to teach you have to watch carefully and learn hoe to feel   Combinations: 1. Low jab – hand check/right backfist – inside pak – head butt (opponent maintains centerline) 2. low jab – hand check/right backfist – lop sao – head butt (opponent crosses centerline) · backfist to head butt is a half beat finish H-L-H (head butt-Knee-Elbow) 3. low jab – jao sao (to the ear) – head butt/or jut sao – head butt (P.I.A.) · if he backs up knee the thigh · if he takes a full step back Thai kick his thigh   · first you need to develop your instinct/timing to enter (practice vs. a boxer, thaiboxer, kickboxer, karate man, grappler, etc.)   · practice H.K.E. with dumog · Dumog with single H.K.E. strikes · Dumog with multiple H.K.E. strikes · Always keep your hands on to make sure you can hit again if you need to · Put in Eye rakes with the H.K.E. · Zone with the finger jab – pull the upper arm (dumog) into a head butt (finger jab – check with left- right finger jab) · Practice H.K.E. from inside left inside right outside left and outside right   · If you hit someone in the face with 5 elbows all they can do is cover up – which opens them up – and they get blood in their eyes · If you knee someone they buckle and open up their face · H.K.E. can be done until you are 80 years old, they work on everyone – you can be sick, hung over, it does not matter – they are hits that are hard to miss when open and they are among the most damaging ballistic hits possible.

JKD Grappling

Kino Mutai

Kino Mutai – is a lost art – it literally means the art of pinching and biting – it was taught to Dan by some old Filipino masters who have since passed away – it is only known by a handful of people who Dan has passed it to – it is a barbaric art because the Filipinos have always needed a way to circumvent the odds that have been against them, historically speaking, which is why they have always found ways to cheat – and pinching/eye gouging/and biting are all ways to cheat when ground fighting   *With the concept of biting people say “Well anyone can bite”, well that is true, everyone has the ability to bite, but anyone cannot bite effectively – we have an entire art predicating biting, the Philipinos have found 144 ways/positions to bite people uninterrupted (90 years of practice/research) – Kino Mutai is the ability to know where/when/and how to bite   *biting gives you space, the better Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu man he is the tighter his movements will be – when you bite a Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu black belt you turn him into a white belt because they give you the space that you need and you have taken them into the unknown   *Always keep the action going – never give the opponent time to breathe – the best defense is a good offense – we move from one bite to the next – on the ground there are more bites than anything else – it takes every 5-10-15 seconds for a lock/choke/etc. but bites happen every second, you could be perpetually biting and keeping him off of his game in the self-preservation mode   Our first few bites are from the bottom position (the very worst position to be in) – keep in mind that the very purpose for biting is to be able to get back up to your feet so you can escape or engage in stand up fashion   Cross-Side Position – Defending - Nipple Bite The man in the cross side position has one arm under your neck and one arm over your arm (clasping his hands together) – his chest is on yours (a good base) – his leg is stretched out – keep your left arm/hand under his armpit (you do not want your left arm exposed unless you are doing a neck bite because he can lock you) – have your left hand on his back (pointing up) – your right elbow should be on his hip – do an “umpah” then grab around his back and bite his nipple then push him off with your legs to give you space   Cross Side Position – Defending - Neck Bite This is a more dangerous bite – this time your hand is dangling out instead of under his armpit (left hand) (he can lock-figure 4) – grab around his back/head and figure 4 it and bite the neck -If he knows about digging his shoulder into your chin to prevent bites take your body and askew it 15 degrees to the right while pushing on his hip with your right elbow then figure 4 his back/head and bite – then push off – injure to degree means there are differences between biting the neck and biting the nipple and arm under or hanging   Cross Side Position – Defending - Lat Bite  
  This time his elbow is over your neck instead of under – when people use the cross side position their position might vary slightly depending on what their “objective” is (a choke, lock, pin, etc.) – arm is on other side of your neck – his right arm is guarding you from putting him in the guard (if his arm isn’t there you can pivot/slide and get into the guard – your right elbow is on his hip and your left arm comes by his neck – figure 4 his back while raising your knee (the knee is to prevent him from mounting you) to sandwich him so he can’t move – squeeze him tight and bite his lat then push him off   Cross Side Position – Defending - Groin Bite Now both arms are pinned against your body (he has tackled you to the ground, gone into the cross-side position with both your arms underneath him – at this point you could bite his lat, but it would not be uninterrupted – bend your right elbow out between his legs your left arm pushes his hip and push off your right foot all at the same time – spin your body (clockwise) – squeeze around him and bite his groin then push off   Cross Side Position – Attacking – Neck Bite Now we are in the top position – in tournaments you have both arms over the opponent but for our needs we have our arm underneath his neck so we can pin his chin with our shoulder (preventing him from biting us) – most times if your right arm is on their hip it prevents him from getting into the guard – but we like to put our right knee on his hip to prevent it – take your left leg away from him incase he is strong (he can flip you over and be on top, you would still have the bite, but we want to stay on top) – your right arm is under him and grab hands while pushing your shoulder down – he can’t bite you, but you can bite him   Mount Position – Attacking – Face Bite The most vicious biting you can do is done from the mount position – there are 2 types of mounts (1- up high – both arms are able to punch) (2- low mount – this is the mount we use in Kino Mutai because it gives a strong base) – put your hooks in – grab under his neck with your right arm grab your own bicep and eye gouge or bite his cheek – he may be strong and put you in the guard – but even if he umpahs you still have the bite   Standing Up (Head Lock) Position – Defending – Lat Bite He has you in a headlock – he may try to punch you with his other hand so grab his bicep with your hand hit him in the groin grab around his waist bite his lat then jump up and head butt   Sumbrada – Kali Fighting Method – flow pattern means you continue with a flow of techniques – it is working on attributes (flow) -This develops timing/attributes – helps both people at the same time -It isn’t a battle of attrition – learn it slowly – make it a sensitivity drill – later on you can speed it up -It flows to make a full circle and can be never ending   Ground Fighting Sumbrada Pattern   Partner is on top in cross side position – do the nipple bite – then slide your hips under and get into the guard and neck bite – he stands so grab his shirt (shoulders) put your legs on his hips and roll to the mount and do the face bite    
  You are mounted while doing the face bite – he “umpahs” and gets into the guard and does the nipple bite – he pins your arms to the ground and head butts you – he stands up and pounds your groin – he breaks and passes your guard – puts his knee on your chest and punches your face with one hand – cross side with the bite to the neck/cheek   He is on top doing the neck/cheek bite bring your arm up pushing his head away – he passes your arm and does a lat bite – you push his head down and he does the groin bite – you pike/push (he puts his right hand on your hip to secure) he hops up puts his knee on your chest (right) and punches you in the face with one hand   He is punching you in the face with one hand (it creates a visceral response to spin) you spin – he puts his arm in for the choke (after you spin) – roll over so he is on his back he is using his left hand to choke and his left hand is under your armpit securing your other hand – he is biting your neck and heel kicking your groin   We are defending against the choke push your secured arm to 7 o’clock to unlock it (as you grab his right arm to bite do not open your mouth wide because if he pulls in it will be a lock against your jaw and you will be in great pain – once you get your mouth too open you cannot apply pressure) – pull so you have just enough room to bite, now you nibble and tear (but he can pull away then choke) so grab his right shoulder (shirt) with your right hand and spin to where he would be in the guard (and you make a technical error) – you left arm is under his leg and your right arm is on his stomach (vertically) so he can put you in the triangle choke and tries – immediately get your base/posture (bring your knees to his butt and stand up on your knees (straight) while pulling his left leg up) – turn and bite his inner thigh while securing his leg – pass the guard (when you pass the guard try to apply pressure enough to touch his knee to his chest to pass safely) and get to the cross side position – now we are back to the starting position   Kino Mutai Sumbrada Flow:   1.) Nipple Bite (from bottom) 2.) Neck Bite (from guard) 3.) Face Bite (from mount) 4.) Nipple Bite (from guard) 5.) Neck Bite (from cross side) 6.) Lat Bite (from cross side) 7.) Groin Bite (from cross side) 8.) Neck Bite (from rear) 9.) Arm Bite (from choke) 10.) Leg Bite (from triangle) 11.) Face Bite (from cross side) 12.) Repeat   Self-Perfection is doing a training drill (Hubud, Sumbrada, a jab drill, a flow pattern on the ground)  
 Self-Preservation is what we would do in a street fight – you would need to get out of the laboratory and into the street to bite people, if you don’t want to do that you need to strap a piece of meat on your partner to learn the technique of tearing flesh properly – this is not stuff you go around doing – this is what you do to protect your family (if you are out at a 7-11 at 3:00 a.m. and a 300 lb. man is holding you down and someone else is grabbing your wife or kids and you need to bite to get up, then you bite!) – that is what this is all about – when you think about gouging the eyes, stabbing someone with a knife, or bludgeoning someone with a stick – these are not pleasant things; but sometimes it is not a pleasant world out there where you have to learn to defend yourself   -Biting is the equalizer for ground fighting – now you are armed with one of the most powerful tools to level the playing field   *To practice tie the meat to any part of the body – put a t-shirt on over the meat, most of the time people would be wearing a t-shirt but you could practice it without   -Damage to create space – if you take a chunk out of someone they are going to think twice before starting again with you or taking you to the ground   -The ground fighters try to initiate a double leg takedown 90% of the time (S.D.A.) – as he tries this the man has a chance to hit – instead do an entry > straight blast > double leg takedown > bite (this is a way to circumvent and cheat – giving you a much better chance) – you are occupying centerline so you are cheating   Entry > straight blast > takedown > bite > stand up/pound the groin > pass the guard and pound the face   -Remember the bite against the arm lock on hamstring > go to the groin – if too long bite the calf!

Stick Fighting

There are different varieties of sticks – but you use them all the same way -have your hand choke up a fist length so you can hit with the butt (punyo) of the stick (some people like 2 fist lengths – that is a personal preference) - you have the same kind of motions as with the knife (but stick motions are a little wider – brings out a different body mechanic)   Single Stick:   -stances, footwork, and angulation – athletic movements – stick and move like in boxing -when you break in get lower and use your checking hand   -there are 6 ranges in the Filipino Martial Arts, but we are using 3 to make it easier to learn   Ranges:   Largo Mano – his stick can’t hit your head, but your stick can hit his hand Sumbrada – his stick can hit your head – employ your checking hand, but you can’t reach with the punyo Hubud – can employ H.K.E. – the punyo may be used – close quarter weapons/like trapping range   Footwork:   -is predicated on triangles -when you have a stick whipping around at 120 mph you need to get to zero pressure, triangles get you to zero pressure zero pressure- at the beginning of his attack (shoulder) and at the end of his attack (shoulder) – where there is no power -get away from the force of his attack -practice without the weapon first   picture of 8 segment triangle footwork helper   Numbering System:   Diagonal/Thrusting down –  Angle 1 step forward angle out with the right foot Backhand Diagonal/Thrust –  Angle 2 step forward angle out with the left foot Horizontal Slice/Thrust –  Angle 3 step forward angle out with the right foot Horizontal Backhand Slice/Thrust –  Angle 4 step forward angle out with the left foot Straight Thrust –  Angle 5 step forward angle out with either foot   Watick – a strike that follows through Laptick – a strike that comes back   Angle 1 - strike goes to the temple/jaw/shoulder/hand Angle 2 - strike goes to the temple/jaw/shoulder/hand Angle 3 – strike goes to the hip/elbow/ribs Angle 4 - strike goes to the hip/elbow/ribs Angle 5 – strike anywhere   -hit with the last few inches of the stick -any target is applicable with the weapon   Coordination Drills:   Largo Mano Range:   Angle 1 – high backhand > low backhand > high backhand (watick/laptick/watick) or (laptick/watick/laptick) Angle 1 – high backhand > low backhand > high backhand (all waticks/lapticks) Angle 1 – high backhand (high inward -laptick) > low backhand (watick) > high backhand (follow through)   -Crank the music when you train to help bring out rhythm & broken rhythm -always have your hand on your chest/opposite arm to protect it   Sumbrada Range:   -if you miss the hand smash you can check to secure (your live hand is the more important of the two)   Angle 1 > roof block – zone out to the right with the hand smash (aka umbrella) while checking if your hand is on the right you can’t roof block because you lose economy of motion: Angle 1 > inside sweep – stick hits his hand, hand check immediately follows the smash and stick chambers under your arm Angle 2 > outside deflection - hit hand, check, and hit hand – step out to the right to zone to zero pressure – drop body weight on the last hit If your stick is pointed down: Angle 2 > shield block – raise stick up and check hand/forearm Angle 3 > low wing block – stick is pointed down move the stick across the body and check If the stick is pointed up: Angle 3 > pass – put your hand on theirs circle it and hit the arm/face Angle 4 > drop stick – left palm is facing up – both hands drop down bend down with your hands while angling away from their rear hand (left forward) If stick is pointed down: Angle 4 > outside wing block – stick is pointing straight down and left hand checks - the same mechanics as previous reaction Angle 5 > treated just like the Angle 3 > the pass hits the ulna/bicep/face   -traditional blocks do not work – our “blocks” are hand smashes followed by a hand check -against basic blocks the wrist moves to hit another line/target – it is too fast for a block   Disarms:   -always smash the hand first and foremost – a disarm might present itself if you smash his hand and it is dangling   Snake - Angle 1 > roof block to a snake – circle around the hand counter clockwise Strip – Angle 1 > roof block then grab the stick and strip it (hit punyo to forearm/ulna) Quick Release – Angle 1 > inside sweep then raise do an obaniquo to the temple on the other side of the stick, hook with the punyo while holding their wrist (under) to disarm Vine – Angle 1 > inside sweep and follow through then grab the stick insert yours on their ulna and pry it away   Angle 2 > outside deflection – insert left hand and snake Angle 2 > shield block – grab thumb and strip it straight down Angle 3 > pass – grab their hand and quick release (push with the forearm) Angle 3 > wing block – grab the stick and strip it Angle > drop stick –    -each disarm can be done on each “block” on each angle -practice obaniquos or hits after each disarm   Counters:   For each disarm there is a counter   Angle 2 > vine > grab the sticks at the middle where they cross, backfist and take the sticks Angle 2 > outside deflection > drop sticks > quick release Angle 2 > outside deflection > as it comes around grab the stick > pinch the thumb Angle 2 > outside deflection > drop stick > snake his weapon   -this teaches sensitivity -now flow with Sumbrada – start with the box pattern – it teaches counter for counter – the box pattern is meant to be broken – it teaches speed/timing/and reflexes for sparring -when you hit you block and when you block you hit   Angle 1 > roof block > let the checking hand come back (only for this drill) then inside sweep to Angle 4 > drop stick then feed Angle 5 > wing block then Angle 2 > shield block to Angle 1 (it starts over)   This teaches economy of motion, the proper responses to the different angles and body positioning -eventually you can throw in any strike you want (not the box pattern – just flow) – throw wide angles, etc. -practice disarms, counters to disarms, kicking, blocking, foot sweeps, etc.   Hubud:   Trapping range with the sticks   Angle 1 > raise, slap & hit > repeat (hit with the punyo)   -put in H.K.E., shoulder bump (like head butt), hip bump, etc.   2 Traps out of Hubud:   Tapi – slapping hit Heline – pulling hit   In Hubud after the raise do a tapi to an inside tapi and backhand with the punyo In Hubud after the raise do a tapi to a heline and obaniquo the temple   -now add hits after the traps head, arm, waist, legs, etc.   -the traps need to be strong/tight so he doesn’t hit you back   Double Sticks: Siniwali   -use the right and left hands equally – gives timing/coordination/reflexes/and sense of when to put in the half beat   Drills: develop attributes   -different chambering of sticks: chamber wide or under the arm   Angle 1 Strike with simultaneous chamber on arm Angle 4 Strike with simultaneous chamber over the shoulder Angle 2 Strike with simultaneous chamber on the chest   -there is no stance, first practice H-L-H (standard 6 count) -practice on both sides: 6 count or 3 on each side (different) 3 count -put in the half beats: Angle 1 with a half beat & retract for second hit – practice on each hit   Functionalize-   6 count with hits going on the hands (person wears gloves) Practice variations with line   Right: Left:   H-H-H H-H-H (heaven – all high hits) H-H-L H-H-L H-L-L H-L-L H-L-H H-L-H 8 x 8 = 64 variations L-L-L L-L-L L-H-L L-H-L L-L-H L-L-H L-H-H L-H-H   -can do H-H-H to H-H-H (all the same for 6 count), etc. -or can do H-H-H to L-L-L (both sides are different), etc.   Single & Double Stick Sparring:   -practice all ranges with kicking – use equipment so you can use full contact blows (head gear/chest gear/gloves/elbow pads/knee pads/shin pads/groin protection   -you need form and footwork down before you can spar – work your way up   Double Stick:   -use each hand equally – if you lose 1 stick you still have another -uses lateral footwork -works the half beat/timing/rhythm   -the principles you can apply to anything   Long Range – uses continuous movement – can’t hit the head but you can hit the hand Sumbrada – use of the checking hand – can hit the head Hubud – trapping is utilized – can hit with the punyo – close quarter weapons   Double Stick:   Largo Mano/Sumbrada/Hubud:   Single Stick/Double Stick/Single Knife/Double Knife/Stick & Knife   Write down the differences you feel!!

Knife Fighting

Basic Knife Fighting

The core of the Filipino Martial Arts is knife fighting – it is very scientific   There are no blocks against the knife, no x-blocks (many books and magazines use it, but they use it wrong) – the concept of an x-block is correct but you need to block with one hand and slice with the other   Always try to cut the hand on the first motion “defang the snake” – if you defang the snake it is harmless A roof block is an x-block with a defang – cutting is more important than anything else! There is a Dunga/Bacall grip and false grip – how you grip the knife is not important – you can have the knife in either grip in either font/rear hand You do not need power with the knife so it is usually better to use you front hand (quicker) Any size/kind of knife is fine – but practice with a wooden or plastic knife   How to Defend Against a Knife:   Learning how to use the knife teaches you how to defend against it   What not to do-   Do not stab or block and stab – if there is movement you will not be able to use them – any single strike/thrust can turn immediately into a slice (multiple) – you need to cut on the first motion – slice & parry   Many people think they can take a shot from the knife on their arm (protecting) and then feed back to harm the opponent, this does not work! When you get cut the body goes into shock (usually takes 2 or more seconds) – you will lose all your attributes and your heart will be racing uncontrollably (remember what the knife does to the side of beef)   When Fighting – know what you are aiming for – if you aim for his hand it is 80% or more quicker When Fighting – know what they are going for – they usually go for your head or your body   -Keep your knife tucked in and move around, cut the hand first -If your opponent is in front of you chambering the knife in front of him with a good grip while he is attacking cut his hand -If the opponent is in front of you and has the knife in his rear hand (false grip) and is swinging wildly do not wait until his hand is close to you to cut it, you have the rest of his body as the target area while he is cocking his knife hand   Primary Targets:   wrist (time table 20 seconds to 2 minutes) depending on weight/depth of cut anti cubital fossil – inner elbow arm pit bicep solar plexus hip behind the knee Achilles tendon   If he throws a kick at you cut his leg -Any target is a good target, but the primary targets are the best ones   Numbering System:   Diagonal/Thrusting down –  Angle 1 Backhand Diagonal/Thrust –  Angle 2 Horizontal Slice/Thrust –  Angle 3 Horizontal Backhand Slice/Thrust –  Angle 4 Straight Thrust –  Angle 5   Training methods develop attributes Techniques are things you might do in a fight Never look for disarms, if it happens fine, but cut the hand first and foremost!   Knife Combinations:   -He is using a standard grip & you are using a false grip   Opponent throws and angle 5 – slice his arm & parry > hook the knife back to secure > he throws an angle 2 – parry and cut the wrist > disarm him (push his knife out of his hand with your knife) > cut his bicep > follow through and cut his neck (1 motion) > hook his neck with your knife with a simultaneous wrist lock > throw   Opponent throws and angle 5 – slice his arm & parry > hook the knife back to secure > he throws an angle 2 – parry and cut the wrist > disarm (push his knife out of his hand with your knife) > cut the bicep > follow through and cut the throat (1 motion) > shoulder lock takedown > bargaining position (hooking his arm in another lock)   Opponent throws and angle 5 – slice his arm & parry > hook the knife back to secure > he throws an angle 2 – parry and cut the wrist > use knife to raise his arm (elbow pointing upwards) > put left hand in for shoulder lock with arm cut > hook the neck > throw   Opponent throws and angle 5 – slice his arm & parry > hook the knife back to secure > he throws an angle 2 – your body is in a different position so bring your front hand up > hook your knife around > grab his hand and return the favor > disarm him > hook your knife around his neck and take his knife and stab his solar plexus   Simplicity means economy of motion, not the number of techniques – you need variety to be as simple as possible   Practice combinations off of every angle The knife brings out body mechanics/sensitivity/the way you move Be able to read his energy (read his pressure)   Things to Practice:   You have empty hands:   Opponent comes with an angle 1 thrust – use the shoulder stop > he throws an angle 2 – switch arms and use a left finger jab as you circle (left foot comes forward)   Practice thrust > slash & slash > thrust   Opponent throws an angle 1 – cut his wrist > cut across his waist > cut his throat > cut his arm and check with your left hand or go from the throat to the knee/shin/behind the leg, etc.   Opponent throws an angle 2 – cut his arm and check > throw a left finger jab > cut his waist > cut his arm and check with the left hand   Opponent throws an angle 3 – parry and slice the anti cubital fossil (from right to left) with a left hand check > slice across his upper arm with a left hand check/slice his throat > slice his knee/slice his kidney > throat   -if he slices zone and slice his arm -just slice his arm aim for the ulna or the anti cubital fossil -parry and slice his arm   Have your body move fluidly – continually move and cut with the knife 1 move turns into another there are no stops or pauses   Knife Sparring:   -wear gloves on both hands – you can punch with the rear hand and the other glove protects your knife hand -shin pads - so you can kick and be kicked -goggles – to protect your eyes -have your knife in your front hand to cut   -bring out broken rhythm -move around and slice you are practicing your entries not disarms   Double Knife Sparring:   -promotes the use of the left hand -lateral footwork is employed -more squaring off -keep your feet a little closer together   Empty Hands vs. Knife:   -if you meet a knife then hide, if you can’t hide then run, if you can’t run then fly, if you can’t fly then back yourself against a wall keep you wrists in try to stop-hit with kicks and destroy the nerves on his arm if he over extends to get him to drop the knife   -remember what the knife does to the side of beef!   *Practice vs. a magic marker to have more respect for the blade   Attributes are your best defense – use your attributes when your heart is pounding a mile a minute – imagination is your best tool practice until your heart isn’t pounding – train to have no fear, but remember to respect the blade!  

Advanced Knife Fighting

Drills make the knife fighter, not the techniques Never has there been a subject taught by so many who know so little Never block the knife or practice disarms out of thin air Practice with an industrial magic marker and you will be released of your ignorance   Myth #1 -trying to block a knife If you try to block a knife all the opponent has to do is pull away to cut Today people do not have armor, therefore we do not need to thrust; you need to flail with it and retract quick like a fast jab; you need the right attributes to deal with that footwork, line familiarization, and timing (only attained through the proper training methods)   Range: 3 ranges   Largo Mano- his knife cannot reach your face but your knife can reach his hand Defanging the Snake- (most important technique/concept)- if you try to use a passive hand and then thrust there is a slight structural flaw (you will be cut)- you need to defang the snake on the very next beat (passive hand is not needed so keep it on your chest)   Sumbrada Range- when he can touch you- you need the checking hand or you will be cut (but if you use the checking hand in largo mano you will be cut)   Hubud Range- closest range- the clinch range   *you need to know all 3 ranges   Myth #2 -how to hold a knife Only timing, line familiarization, footwork and heart count; how you hold the knife, size, etc. are the least of your worries (don’t focus on the wrong things!); if you pick the knife up from the ground and it is in a false grip then use it in a false grip, be able to be effective no matter what way you are holding the knife   Largo Mano Drill: -have your partner feed angles 1 through 5 and slice his hand every time he feeds an angle (always back up every time you strike) throw an angle 1 for a 1, 2 for a 2, 3 for a 3, 4 for a 4, and 3 for a 5   Sumbrada Drill: -using the 5 angles- memorize them then flow- then just flow with the angles using no memory Angle 1- roof block with cut (while zoning on a 45 degree angle)- raise and stretch then cut and check Angle 1- inside sweep (cut forearm, check forearm and turn to the right) Angle 2- shield block (block with the left hand, raise the knife straight up (pointed towards the floor) Angle 4- drop stick/cross block (left hand is palm up cut their wrist, step out toward the left with the right leg out of the way while lowering your gravity) Angle 5- do a wing block (pass with the left hand step to the left and cut the wrist palm up)   Hubud Drill: -high hubud with knives -low hubud with knives Pull combinations out of hubud   Mixing it up: Practice flowing from largo mano range > Sumbada range > Hubud range and from Hubud range > Sumbrada range > largo mano range *keep the flow/repore You need to be able to sense what knife range you are in Practice each angle with kicks and punches flowing between all 3 ranges while adding in all your tools   Largo Mano Range: The longest range- one side feeds and the other side slices and backs up (defanging the snake)- it develops line familiarization/ability to keep the checking hand out of the way (safe)   Sumbrada Range: The middle range- The checking hand is employed (most important hand)- when both people can cut each others’ faces   Hubud Range: The closest range- where Head Butts, Knees & Elbows can be employed   Double Knife Fighting: Use Numerada- develops line familiarization/footwork (perpetual zoning)/coordination/& spatial relationships One person feeds all the angles- try to get three hits in on each angle that is given Switch between Numerada, Sumbrada, Hubud, Feeders Practice with 1 knife and 2 knives Practice with kicks   Knife vs. Empty Hand: This is not a very practical situation- you need to bide your time till you can run Stay on your toes Keep your wrists in (to protect your arteries) Hopefully he will overextend to where you can catch him with a few nerve destructions to get him to drop the knife Use low line kicking to the groin/knee cap/siatic nerve and run! Learn to feel the energy of the knife (the “U” drill)(Dumog)- stick to him- use eye jabs/groin hits/arm wrenches/ & traps   Knife Sparring: Use all the tools in all 3 ranges Have Largo Mano/Sumbrada/Hubud/Numerada down before you spar with them Use goggles/gloves and go at it! (it’s a point game) Make sure you respect the blade! –there should be less hitting and more respect given unless abilities are not even Remember what the knife does to a side of beef Use knife fighting to develop your cat-like reflexes! 

Anatomy of a Street Fight

The most important thing you need to be able to do in a street fight is flow (between ranges), if you can’t flow you will lose You need to train everything separately, and then train them all together in a flow Always try to train as realistically as you can   Knife Fighting: -if you fall down keep on cutting until you get up -if he falls circle him and keep cutting   Stick Fighting: -If you break your stick or drop it keep on moving- don’t freeze up   Close Quarter: -if he is in your face then Head Butt, Knee and Elbow (don’t push him away, get your hands up then engage) JKD is intercepting- hit him right away -Never give him a chance to show you how good he is, he may be better than you, but you better not want to find out!   If you are fighting 2 people use the straight blast on one of them to split them up, and then finish the second man   3 on 1: Try to take the first guy out in one shot (head butt) Straight blast the second guy to split the remaining two Now you have all the time you need to take out the last man -otherwise if you stay in the middle you get caught in “the fog of war” (the middle position is a bad position) -always fight one person at a time   Long Range: Sometimes being street smart is better than being technically proficient!

Mass Attacks

Now we are talking about 2, 3, or 4 people on 1 (big strong guys who are pissed off and bent on your destruction while gang banging you at the same time -No one circles around you and comes in one at a time like in many martial art movies -The most important thing is footwork and zoning- we zone so we don’t have to fight more than one person at a time -You’ll never have to fight 2 or 3 people at the same time if zoning is done properly -Use a progression in training- understand zoning and practice with plenty of room, then practice while not having much room to move around -Start at 20%- zone 1 direction or to the other, never go down the middle; while you hit one guy watch the other one, practice the footwork and zoning, once you have that down then practice using different tools (in isolation & in combination)- always position your body away from the other guy -For mass attacks you must have your Boxing/footwork down- it must be a reflexive action for you to be the most effective- you can’t worry about what your feet are doing while trying to worry about what your hands are doing, while worrying about what these other guys are doing! (it takes about 5-10 hours of training footwork to accomplish this) -Never stop moving or they will swarm on you- practice when they can jab only -Now practice when you can jab back at them (if you use a cross then your feet are planted- be conscious of this)- remember, your jab could be an eye jab! -Now have the opponents able to jab, but you can jab & grab (Dumog & Tai Chi)- throw one into the other and run! -Now you can use both hands and your opponents can only jab- try not to plant when you cross- continually hit and move -Now move up to 3 on 1 (remember that with each person added against 1 the odds of your coming out on top becomes less exponentially)- they are bent on your destruction & have pain tolerance, what do you do? (be mean/cheat/use an equalizer/bite/do whatever it takes to come out on top!) -Now you can kick & punch (but remember that when you kick you have no footwork while 1 foot is in the air, so you may become swarmed) and you have 3 opponents who can use both hands -Now move into the bar environment- there is no room for footwork- start against 2 people- always look for an escape route, where is our footwork- neutralize the opponent (first grab the closer man- when you have his neck use H.K.E. & eye rakes- but watch the other man)- practice with one on each side then 2 on one side -Now have an adversary on each side, have 1 man start punching you (take a few shots- which is good for the soul!) zone right away- position yourself properly first then use your tools -Now have 2 adversaries but one is further away- H.K.E. the first guy then push him into the other one and run -Now introduce all the weapons (H.K.E./Sticks/Knives)- if he is encroaching and a fight is imminent then hit first! Allow no pushes, hit first and keep on hitting- take one out right away then it is only 1 on 1 (much better odds!) -Now concentrate on using your surroundings (ash tray)- use it on the first guy to take him out quickly then attack the other guy -Now add a third man in the scene- if they are split up go for the one man go for an equalizer and hit him to take him out- throw him into the others and run (if possible throw chairs, stools, etc.)

Archive

Knife Combinations: -He feeds an angle 5- parry & stab is what we would do- but pass > when he comes up for an angle 2 catch it and cut his wrist > disarm the knife > stab his inner elbow > shoulder lock > bargaining position *or you can take him straight to the ground at the disarm by using a wrist lock -He feeds an angle 5- pass it > he comes up so raise your front hand > pak sao & stab > pak sao & stab/lop sao & stab *or when he comes up scoop around and feed his knife back (returning the favor) > disarm him then grab around his neck with knife > stab his chest   The key to JKD is being able to move from structure to structure   Combination: -Opponent throws a jab- Gunting (brachial) > left finger jab > right backfist (all in one motion) (their arm gels up) > throw a Panantukan uppercut under their arm (while securing their arm) > simultaneous eye jab/simultaneous groin hit (left hand to the groin) > left hand slap to the occipital (while pushing the chin- sandwich effect) > grab head to twist and takedown > secure with the knee on their chest   Lock flow after figure 4- pull arm towards yourself turn their wrist put left arm through grabbing bicep and add pressure  

Attributes

1. Footwork- intercept, destroy, parry, pat, slip, duck, etc. - weapons training develops good footwork- each has an inherent characteristic to develop it (basketball, running, jumping rope, etc.) 2. Environmental awareness: · Look for escape routes · Be aware of people approaching · What is in your immediate area (weapon, shield, ketchup bottle, ash tray, chair, garbage cans, pool cues, belt, cane, etc.) · If there are 2 or more people throw one into the others or use him as a shield · Visualize yourself in dangerous situations 3. Distance & Emotional Control- when in long range stay cool & collected, stay in a range where interceptions & destructions are feasible 4. Line Familiarization- work with the different angles of attack- destroy the limb with your elbow or if you have a knife slice the hand- angles simplify the process 5. Timing- most elusive attribute- it takes months or years to develop- sparring helps- isolate certain tools- mismatched weapons sparring is good as well (ex. Stick vs. Knife) 6. Speed- speed and relaxation go hand in hand- relax when training- heavy bag training- shadow boxing- flick and whip the hit only tense at the moment of impact- snap it back on the same line by retracting it quickly- economy of motion is crucial- many aspects (perpetual, relax, initiation), we have methods to develop them all 7. Power- the most sought after but the least important- certain tools need little power to cause great pain, but you need attributes like speed and timing- body mechanics increase power   *study kinesiology- how to maximize your speed/power with your body


BL - In order to move in and out of range in combat you must learn this highly developed footwork - 26 different footworks - it is the base/grounding Mobility Workshop -  Body Mechanics - you have to learn how to hit with power, Boxing/Head Butts/Elbows/Knees - Body positioning - How to use a weapon - Punches Timing & Rhythm - Based on the footwork and mechanics and the trapping - How to use beats - quarter beats, half beats & eighth beats Jun Fan Kickboxing - 5 ways of ATTACK - Putting it all together - Intercepting/Destructions/feinting Explosiveness & Speed - without explosiveness and speed you aren’t an athlete - you should be - we are trying to build that athleticism to make techniques work - it is the ability to be powerful in a sudden manner and also to be explosive in striking and moving - some of these methods taught are the highest level in Jeet Kune Do The Filipino Martial Arts - Drills (Stick, double stick, knife, double knife, espada y daga) - the concepts and techniques Sensitivity and Flow - the ability to trap and feel an opponent - to be able to feel and adapt to your opponent (this is the highest level) - Bruce said be like water, this is what he meant - when you clinch with someone “All the hours of chi sao it is gonna matter in that one microsecond in the fight when you clinch, he who has the better energy is going to win Killer Instinct - The ability to relax and be aggressive in a fight when needed - Bruce called this stage of the fight the rally, going from calm to killer instinct back to calm again - being able to control your adrenaline rush - very few people understand it and know how to control it Grappling - Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu and Kina Mutai (over 144 different ways to pinch and bite someone) - so if the guy is bigger and a better Jiu-Jitsu man than you we will show you how to beat him with pinching and biting Philosophy - the mental attitudes and philosophical concepts of Bruce Lee and Jeet Kune Do - Bruce Lee’s methods of faking so you can understand the principles, concepts, and guidelines of Jeet Kune Do JKD Street Fighting Concepts - Learn the street saavy of the Martial Arts (which Jeet Kune Do was invented for) and how to put it all together

Attributes Part II

An attribute is a quality Body Mechanics- in trapping range- combine body mechanics and rhythm for techniques in trapping range- body mechanics give you the ability to take out a big man- adds torque to your hits (cocking) -after your traps · Head Butt- pull his face in (use your lats & traps) towards the top of your head- when he bends knee him- then elbow, penetrate deeply for power · Knee- lean back slightly which sets up the Head Butt · Elbow- like a hook punch- use the tip of your elbow to graze his head/temple/eye brow/throat/jaw while grabbing his hair for added effect *H.K.E. work together in a synergy *Use the inner elbow to send the head out then catch and elbow the head with your other arm at the same time to create a sandwich effect for added power Tai Chi- uses a leverage effect- has a good base- uses the torque of the body   -Look at the ranges Preliminary Analysis- size up your opponent- not thinking/no internal dialogue- you are getting a feel for your opponent- takes about 2-4 seconds Pot-Shot- you are moving around- you might stick him in the eyes, then fake his eyes (immediately to use his brain against him) then hit him in the groin or vice versa- used to inflict pain which allows you to borrow that moment in time to enter safely into trapping range (turning on the killer instinct and using H.K.E > any other art) The Rally- the straight blast/killer instinct/H.K.E./arm wrenches- continuous pressure Killer Instinct- only used in trapping range (traps, H.K.E.)- In long range we use kicking, punching, destructions, interceptions (stop-hitting)   Sensitivity- the ability to read your opponent’s intentions/pressure/force- if he pushes you then pull- if he pulls you then push- it comes into play in trapping range- if he gives you an obstacle/pressure, then go around it and insert your tool/sensitivity for a split second · Hubud- raise > slap and hit- covers a spectrum of reference points and teaches you when to insert certain tools · Lop Sao- raise > pull and hit · Chi Sao- constant pressure *flow between them to gain sensitivity -Integrate techniques in energy drills to become functional at trapping- it gives you the ability to pull off your techniques -pull the jab out of Hubud   Interceptions: -you need a high level of awareness and timing in long range to intercept; in short range you need sensitivity -It is an easy concept but it is difficult to pull off- you need to hit your opponent before he hits you Interception tools- (front jab, front kick, Thai kick, and Jeet Tek- train them in a progression, stay just outside his range as he encroaches or initiates an attack intercept him (as soon as he breaches that range “J.K.D. Range”) - practice against a boxers jab, Thai kick vs. the jab (start where he can’t hit you but don’t intercept every time, pat or duck too), Jeet Tek (a raised side kick) vs. the jab or encroachment *Borrow these moments in time to initiate the straight blast   *Isolate broken rhythm in trapping range   Rhythm   Combinations: Opponent jabs- brachial gunting > left finger jab (1 beat) >  An inside pak sao > rear cross to the solar plexus > hand check with a backfist > a knee (all in 1 beat) Or brachial gunting to a back fist (1 beat) >    Zoning to Gain Rhythm: Opponent jabs- groin jao sao > ear jao sao (when you jao sao low the eyes open up, when you jao sao the ear the groin opens up- finish with corresponding H.K.E. shots)   Take Advantage of Rhythm Through Timing: Opponent jabs- brachial gunting > left finger jab > backfist > but if he maintains good form to block, then…  On finger jab angle to the left > zone in with other finger jab- manipulate his parry to get in on him > finish   Arm Wrenches for Half Beats: Opponent jabs- brachial gunting > back fist > (he holds centerline) so pak sao > elbow destruction > arm wrench > groin slap > head butt (while Dumog pull to his arm) Opponent jabs- brachial gunting > back fist > (he crosses centerline) so lop sao > elbow destruction > arm wrench > groin slap > head butt (while Dumog pull to his arm)   *First go slow- then go fat- then break up the rhythm   *Attributes made Bruce Lee what he was- his attributes were world class- he understood the importance of training them over “petty techniques."

Attributes Part III

Qualities make up a street fighter: heart/power/speed/strength/killer instinct/etc. Without qualities techniques mean nothing Bruce called them “petty techniques”- you need to know how to train them, how you train it doesn’t improve your technique per say, but increases your attributes which in turn make your techniques more effective (attributes make the techniques work)   Jeet Kune Do is the way of intercepting- it is impossible to get into trapping range without intercepting/destroying- so we need training methods to increase our ability to intercept- we don’t want to duke it out (usually the bigger man wins) - you need to intercept to get into the game -someone who has fast hands/feet and good structure is very difficult to intercept, so Dan Inosanto introduced destructions (destroy it!!!)- Interceptions & destructions are the main entry tools -in order to work your interceptions/ destructions you need to be in the proper range (everyone gets too close)- we need to be a little further back (toe to toe the bigger man wins)- it also gives us a little more time- we need to get to trapping range but we need to break our way in -distancing is the first part of the progression (further away) - use footwork to come in- make him encroach then intercept   The Vu Scale: Timing& distancing- to intercept- stay back Change perception- you will never intercept if you think it is the more important to hit each other- you want to cause pain > pressure > terminate- learn to fight outside of your weight class -The Vu scale gives you a formula- its more of a fun game than sparring- it’s a chess match 1. Interceptions 5 points 2. Destructions 4 points 3. Entry (into trapping range) 3 points 4. Fake/Feint 2 points 5. Strike/Hit 1 point -this will change your priorities- you want a well timed destructive hit, duking it out only works against people your size or smaller -Use a dry erase board, let them play and keep score- reprioritize their brains (usually 6 months) -when you cause pain as your entry you make it much easier to get into trapping range/fight outside of your weight class -sometimes you might not get a good interception/destruction, but you still get into trapping range (straight blast, H.K.E.) that is still okay -P.I.A.- incorporating a fake- a method of entering- it takes up time but it is indirect so that you take up distance as well- if everything else is even the better faker will win the fight -hitting someone in the face is not a big deal (thinking of a larger opponent), if you hit someone in the eyes/groin/knee they go down -remember it is just a game!   Intercepting: Off the jab/haymaker- shuffle kick to the groin/Thai kick to the thigh/finger jab -It is not just an arbitrary hit- it is an interception, not an S.D.A. -you see what is coming in and use proper timing and distancing to pull it off -you need a proper progression (like sports) to simulate attribute development/be able to pull it off   Destructions (Hands): 1. Elbow destruction 2. Bicep destruction 3. Triceps destruction 4. Forearm destruction 5. Armpit/Shoulder destruction (Low Line Legs): 1. Point knee to shin on roundhouse kick 2. Point knee to shin on groin kick (High Line Legs): 1. Left kick- grab and elbow the shin with your left 2. Right kick- grab and elbow the shin with your right   Entries: Means you do a straight blast with no previous hits- good but not great- it is a passive entry, but sometimes it is there so take it when you can   Fakes: -turns a S.D.A. into a P.I.A.- it is like comparing a sling shot and an M-16- fake high then go low or fake low then go high -A fake is not a jab that misses- make him think that a jab is coming one way H-L-H (from praying mantis kung fu)   *if you are duking it out you are rolling dice “I hop this guy isn’t bigger than me!” *you cannot relate points to a street fight- reprioritize- it is a game   -progressively add all attacks (jab, cross, hook, low line kicks, and high line kicks, etc.)- This teaches you line familiarization -if a 6’8” man throws his best shot and you destroy his hand the fight is over before you straight blast and H.K.E./thumb the eyes -if you hit him it hurts him so intercept If he hits you (destruction) it hurts him too -This is not a digression to a point system (kickboxing) - it is a reprioritization to teach interceptions/destructions as the main tools in your arsenal -Don’t think-feel! - It is a visceral/knee jerk response- “kickboxing sensitivity” -S.D.A. - may very well work in a fight- but not likely against a professional fighter -it isn’t “I am gonna hit you as hard as I can in your face, and then you hit me as hard as you can in my face and we’ll see who wins” -it is hard to take a large, wild swinging man out of commission unless you have trained it and can get into trapping range effectively -we do not go hard only 30% -Intercept/Destroy/Enter > Straight Blast > Grab the Head/Tie Up > H.K.E. -the least important thing about fighting is technique- it is about how you do it that counts (fighting methods)- use it all when sparring- in a serious fight intercept and straight blast, etc.- this is for our foundation (training method)- techniques are there only for when you mess up (which only happens 1 out of every 50 times)   *the way you train dictates the way you fight- train key factors first and go slowly.

Attributes Part IV

After the Vu scale- you already know how to intercept/destroy/enter/long range   Street Fights are Lost for 2 reasons: 1. someone gets caught in a range where they are unfamiliar 2. loss of wind- endurance/stamina   *we have a training method for them   In long range we intercept destroy- vu scale In trapping range we straight blast   1. Learn all 4 ranges so you don’t get caught in unfamiliarity 2. If you don’t have wind all your attributes are gone -be able to get through all ranges comfortably- no fear- up your overall chances   Vu Scale Trapping Range go through them like an accordion Ground Fighting   -be able to fight in any range, any way, any style Vu scale > straight blast > H.K.E. > ground fighting (BJJ/Wrestle/Kina Mutai) > get back up & start over · this is the best for developing flow and wind simultaneously -people lose wind from switching ranges because they freak out and don’t know how to fight there- you need to eliminate that neurological process of wasted energy- reprograms your brain so you don’t mind where you fight   4 Ranges of Fighting: -go to the art that specializes in each range to become good at it 1. Kicking- Savate/Thai Boxing 2. Punching- Western Boxers 3. Trapping- Dan Inosanto/Jeet Kune Do 4. Ground Fighting- BJJ/Kina Mutai -become familiar in the ranges so you don’t waste energy- then work on body endurance (Calm > Killer Instinct > Calm)   Psychology of a Fight: (if you do not train properly) -once you are grabbed you will panic -if you are a Boxer once you go to the ground you will panic -if you are a ground fighter if you can’t get in you will panic *when you panic you freak out/waste energy/lose your wind -be able to go from range to range without nervousness   Practice long range > tie up (H.K.E.) > take down/ground fighting > & back out- practice without gloves and be gentle -regardless of what you are training if they get too close throw a kick at them (Thai kick/groin kick) -All fights are fought in 4 ranges period! You need to pick the best person from each range and learn from them/train against them -99/100 of our fights go into/end in trapping range but you always need a backup plan -progressively increase your opponent’s weapons to work off of- increase the number once a week- then train them all together -train so there are no surprises! -his surprise will be once we get into trapping range -be able to adapt to any possible situation- be like water -if you fight out of JKD range it will help you to intercept -Also add the straight blast into it (remember it is playing- not sparring)   Adding Energy to the Mix: -energy comes into play when you are blasting if his hands come up/get in the way- read the pressure and use the proper response- sometimes if the hand comes up kick the low line (which makes the hands go down) then head butt the face- and vice versa   -you lose the essence when you segregate the arts/ranges   -Practice long range > tie up > energy drills (with techniques) > ground fighting > and back out again -mix the self-preservation with the self-perfection to make your combat skills functional   Adding Weapons to the Mix: Stick fighting > Knife Fighting > Long Range > Tie Up > Energy > Ground Fighting > back out again Calm > > Killer Instinct > Calm> > Killer Instinct > Calm   Cat-like  Cat-Like

Attributes Part V

Self-Perfection- a polishing of your techniques- remember that heart is more important (qualities)   Using Traps to Bring Out Your Attributes: Self-Perfection- through weapons training to improve your hand to hand techniques like in the gunting double Gunting (brachial) (the hip is set up for Savate) -Weapons teach you how to keep everything in tight- outside deflection (like with the stick) Gunting (brachial) > triple shot nerve destruction > Savate kick to the head (the very next beat) > Thai kick to the thigh > step forward into Tai Chi -we always end our combinations with some way to completely take someone out > eye rake > head butt > knee the temple > elbow the other temple   Witick- a retracting strike/deflecting strike (usually used in H-L-H) - in empty hand you can use a gunting (brachial) > a same hand finger jab Loptick- a follow though with the strike- in empty hands a gunting > same hand backfist   Gunting (brachial) > eye jab (same hand) > collapse arm Dumog > head butt -if something got messed up (like the gunting or you missed the eyeball or he fights you) > Gunting (brachial) > eye jab (same hand) > collapse arm Dumog (but he fights you) > arm wrench > collapse arm Dumog > head butt add > Dumog push with Savate kick to the groin > elbow the arm > foot sweep > rear choke   New Body Mechanics through Rear Hand Gunting: -if you are tipped over your right leg Parry the punch with your right hand with left finger jab > punch with scoop kick > elbow the deltoid > arm wrench > elbow the deltoid > push neck up & elbow the throat > wrap around and pile drive their head into the floor, choke & squeeze with your legs   Now Stressing Rhythm & the Half Beat: -nothing brings out rhythm, timing and the half beats quite like the double sticks   Gunting (brachial) > oblique (half beat) > backfist- one segment Cross to the solar plexus > hand check with left backfist (half beat) > knee > head butt (half beat)   Practice on a Heavy Bag: Enter- get in with a flurry of punches (would be straight blast in a fight) then get back out- try to get in Thai kick/Savate kick/oblique kicks Self-Perfection/Self-Preservation- they go hand in hand- parts in the matrix Self-Preservation- gives killer instinct/heart/etc. Self-Perfection- gives the proper body mechanics/flow/etc.

List of Attributes

1.) Agility

2.) Awareness

3.) Balance

4.) Body mechanics

5.) Conditioning

6.) Coordination

7.) Explosiveness

8.) Flow

9.) Footwork/Mobility

10.) Killer Instinct

11.) Limberness

12.) Line familiarization

13.) Power

14.) Precision

15.) Mental Attitude

16.) Rhythm

17.) Sensitivity

18.) Spatial relationships

19.) Speed

20.) Stamina

21.) Strength

22.) Timing